WDT790SLYM1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

After watching the repair videos, the repair looked simple enough so I called to order the parts. The lady that answered was very knowledgeable and advised me that I would need to order a manifold also. When the parts arrived I compared the parts I received to the parts to be replaced on the dishwasher. The parts did not look like mine. Having faith I proceed to disassemble my dishwasher. This was the longest part of the repair because mine did not look like the videos I had watched. I figured it out and within 15-20 minutes I was finished. I also wasted time looking for the right size Torx diver to place a couple of screws. Had I looked closely at a black screw that was still in the parts bag I would have seen that it was not a screw - It was a Phillips #2 to Torx driver and could have just used a Phillips screw driver. Yes, I laughed at myself. Dishwasher works great.

watched video took less than 5 min to replace veeeery easy to do

I followed the video on the site and it worked perfectly!

Pulled off old seal found center of new seal and pushed new seal into channel that old seal came out of starting at top middle underneath the latch

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

With a little pressure, I was able to push off the broken wheel pieces with my thumbs. I was able to snap on the new wheel pieces really easily.
This job took less than 15 minutes to replace all 4 wheel pieces.

This is the second time I have replaced a rack. You just pop on the new rollers and you're good to go!

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

After replacing the door seal and the dishwasher still leaked a lot of water out the bottom of the door, I read posts by a couple of other DIY who said the lower spray arm can split at the seam and cause this. One post noted it is very difficult to determine if this is the problem, that you may have to take the blade of a screwdriver and try to pry the seam apart gently to see if a gap does appear with very little force being applied. If so, then just imagine what happens when that very hot water makes that plastic more flexible and then the seam opens and forces waves of water against the lower door. I could see a small seam split using that strategy and when I replaced the spray arm, my leak stopped. I don't regret replacing the door seal as it had a couple of small tears and hard water deposits all over it, so it was time to do that even though it was not the culprit for the extensive leak. The arm is SO EASY to replace, just twist the plastic nut under it and it pops right off. Put the new one on and twist the nut the other way and it secures it.

Snap in the missing track stop and twist snap the middle spray arm. That simple.

Gently pull the old door seal out of it's track observing the orientation of the seal and the amount of extra seal at the ends of the seal grove/track..
Start installing the seal on one side leaving about the same amount of extra seal as original seal before removal.
Be sure the seals orientation is the same as the seal that was removed.
Carefully pressing the seal into the grove/track designed to hold the seal. Be careful to fully seat the seal into the grove/track.
The corners will be a little tricky, but carefully press and seat the new door seal all the way around. There should be a little extra seal after you get to the end of the grove/track.
Good luck, the new door seal solved my water leak.

I opened the package took out the replacement part and installed it with no tools. Easy, done in 10 minutes.

The repair was similar to the very good video provided by PartSelect. However, I did make a few changes. The new rack was slightly different in the front side compared to the old rusted rack. After I removed the old rack from the dishwasher, I placed the two racks side-by -side to make sure they were compatible. They were identical in the rear structure and overall size, so I proceeded to change out the wheel racks, rack height adjusters and upper wash arm to the new rack. I suggest transferring each part one at a time so you can get the spacing correct. Also, in my case, many of the items needed to be washed with water to remove soap buildup in these parts before moving to the new rack. I would also suggest putting the upper wash arm (needed in this case) on the new rack last. The total job took me about an hour including washing or rinsing all parts and reassembly. This is an easy job, just take your time and do one item at a time so nothing gets mixed up. I used a drill driver to remove a total of 4 Phillip head screws for the rack height adjusters but a regular Phillip head screw driver would work as well.

Pull the old seal out and push the new seal in. Done. Easy. The only issue is the door is still leaking and I have to replace the seal and the plate that goes across the bottom of the door.

Order both this seal and the seal for the bottom of the door at the same time.