DU1000CGB1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Look at the exploded parts diagram, that parts select provides on their website.

You have to take off the nine star pointed screws. So you need a special screwdriver or I had a socket set of them and I used a ratchet to make it easier. I think there are nine of them around the base of the door. Then remove the door and set it on the counter. Flip it over and there is a small plastic cover that has to be removed from the back of it, and it is easily removed by gently pulling on it.

Now comes the difficult part. There is a locking piece on it that holds the latch onto the door by interlocking with a piece on the back side of the door. I took a pair of wire snips and just cut the old interlocking piece off. This way I didn't have to try and slide the two interlocking pieces apart.

When you go to put the new piece on before you interlock them make sure they are put on right. Specifically the latch is pointing the right way to seal the detergent door. Otherwise it can be a pain to separate the interlocking pieces again. (which is why I cut it off the old one).

Then you're done. Just put it all back together.

My wife noted wood floor bucking up around dishwasher - pulled dishwasher out from counter, tipped it on it's side, looked underneath, & noted slight corrosion on top of motor -

Took motor/pump assembly completely off of dishwasher (comes out from the bottom) by flipping four little plastic cams on motor to the side & then took pump apart (starting at top & working down) till I got to the impeller/motor shaft seal.

Found plastic impeller worn through into two pieces & little spring thingy under the grinder-upper thingy broken.

Ordered Drain & Wash Impeller kit - got it a few days later - installed (new motor shaft seal didn't seem to be quite the same as far as fit, so I didn't use it - just used the impeller & new spring thingy)

Put it all back together & runs fine - no more leaks - (now just have to figure out what to do about warped wood flooring - oh well, it's old & is probably time for whole new kitchen floor anyway)

Note: This particular Kenmore model made by Whirlpool - takes Whirlpool parts.

Note 2: Needed only screwdrivers to do this whole thing - would have been a really quick/easy repair if I had known what the problem was & how it all comes apart. took a little time to figure it out. (I am a rank amateur at dishwasher repair)

Removed dishwasher lower faceplate.
Removed hose clamp at the dishwasher end.
Removed clamp at the garbage-disposal end.
Removed hose.
Pulled new hose.
Connected both ends of the hose.
Installed both clamps.
Tested.

Removed screws under counter holding washer in place. Pulled washer out until I could access the back. Turned water supply off (in my case faucet under the sink) Turned power off at breaker.
Disconnected water line and electrical wires noting wire location. Removed solenoid unit by undoing two screws on frame. Installed new unit, connected wires and water. Turned water on to ensure no leaks and pushed washer back under counter. Turned power back on and checked machine operation. Replaced the screws under the counter to keep machine in place. This is very easy. In my area a plumber would charge $75 to do this.

removed old parts and re-installed new parts. The spring is a little hard to get to the right point without a jewelers screwdriver, after that everything worked fine.

Disconnect power supply to dishwasher. Open door and remove screws on inner door cover. Carefully remove inner cover while watching how inner parts are arranged. Found return spring on detergent cup linkage had rusted and broken causing detergent cup not to open. Installed new spring and re assembled inner cover. Rotated timer dial one full revolution to check operation of detergent cup. Worked like a charm. Re connect power supply to dishwasher and your good to go.

The mounting bracket was broken.

The parts ordered were a direct match due to the fantastic pictures supplied on this site.
A dealer wanted to order it and then I would have had to drive and pick it up - no way.

partselect.com first time user - very easy.

Replaced both "tracks" and the "wheels" .
Now it's like new....!!
My wife is so happy

Removed the track end caps from the tracks so I could pull out the tracks.
Removed the upper wash rack that holds dishes.
Only by removing this rack can the wheels be replaced, if I tried to replace them with the rack attached to the dishwasher I had to bend forward painfully.
Replace the old rales with new ones.
Attach new wheels to the upper rack in such a way as to allow the rack to roll inside the new rales.
Replace the end caps.
Hope it lasts another 10 years

Diagnosing the problem, i.e. finding the source of the leak, was the hardest part. The best clue was the leak only occurred well into the cycle when the water was hot and steam was coming out the vent. I then assumed there was a bad seal and steam & condensed water was leaking down into the door. I replaced the vent duct & seal, a broken drip cover (an internal part in the door), and replaced a missing rinse aid cap. This stopped the leak.

I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Water was not being sprayed thru the arms. I opened the dishwasher, removed/unscrewed the spray arms and wash impeller (black plastic wheel that directs the water) and then noticed that the part below the wash impeller had broken into pieces. There was only a metal ring and it was supposed to have a spring attached to it. I replaced the ring/spring below the wash impeller using the part from the Drain and Wash impeller kit. The dishwasher works great now.

It was my first mechanical fix. Use the web to diagnose, find the specs of the appliance and use common sense and you can do it yourself too.

By the way, the parts from this site arrived the next day.

The only difficult part was taking out (relatively easy) and returning (hard) the clips from the rails. This required bending the end of the metal rails with pliers. Otherwise the dishrack just rolled in with no issues.

The spinner is somewhat lower than the one it is replacing, making the clearance over items in the lower rack to be serviceable but marginal.

The dishrack came in one box I opened the box snapped on the rollers and the bumpers and put it in the dishwasher, could not have been easier Thank you partselect

I removed all the ( what my Husband called star screws ) star screws and removed the housing panel ( holds dish detergent cup and silverware basket ) I discovered everything accross the bottom was all gucked up with detergent soap accumulation. I took the part to the kitchen sink and used the sprayer hose on the part with hot water and it cleaned up beautifully, and the detergent latch then worked ( the spring that operates the latch was all gucked up with detergent accumulation ).
I am the wife and did all of this myself and it only took around 5-10 min. My Husband had to help me figure out the type of screws because they turned out to not be phillip screws, but as Hubby called them.."star screws".
Soooo, I did not need to use the Latch Kit I purchased, so will store it in my parts supply! :)
Happy repairs to you..
Judy Estes Park, CO