GU2300XTVT3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Caviat: The actual repair is less than 15 minutes, but I spent a lot of time playing with it before I figured out it was that easy and fast. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from the counter to do this. And it will probably help to look at the new part closely so you can understand where the retainer clip is to press it and release the old pump.

First remove the water from the dishwasher pan that would not drain with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise the water will all drain on the floor when you remove the pump. Then remove the two screws on the kickplate on the front of the unit below the door. Remove the kickplate/maintainence access cover. The drain pump is on the right about 8 inches in. Using two hands you grasp the drain pump with your right hand and use the left hand to push the retaining clip down. Then the drain pump will rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise and can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out. There is likely to be some water leak out that was traped in the pump housing that you can not reach with the vac. Disconnect the wire. Connect the wire to the new pump, put it in place and 1/4 turn clockwise to install it. Replace the kickplate and you're done.

1) Remove top and bottom dish baskets from the dishwasher, this will give you room to work. To remove top basket there are clips at the end of the slide rails.
2) Remove lower spray arm by unscrewing plastic screw, it should only be hand tight.
3) In order to remove the strainer cover, you will need to remove the plastic tube that takes water to the middle and top spray arms. Unclip this tube from the top and middle clips and then work it out of the strainer assembly tube. Now you should be able to remove the tube at the bottom of the dishwasher by unscrewing it 1/4 turn.
4) Remove the strainer cover by unscrewing the 4 Torqs screws.
5) You will now see two smaller torqs screws that hold the hold the Chopper Assembly cover down. Take these two screws out and remove the two piece cover.
6) Pull out the broken Chopper Assembly, make sure you get all the pieces!
7) Install the new Chopper Assembly. Make sure that you install the Assembly with the small part of the screen towards the bottom of the housing. Also make sure you compress the spring as you install the part. I used a small pair of neddle nose pliers to compress the spring behind the screen in order to install the chopper assembly.
8) Put everything back together and make sure it works!

Step 1: Remove the screws in the bottom of the countertop.

Step 2: Remove the screws holding the bottom kickplate.

Step 3: Loosen leveling legs.

Step 4: Pull dishwasher out of hole.

Step 5: Unlplug dishwasher.

Step 6: Disconnect wires from bottom of element in back.

Step 7: Remove plastic nuts holding element in place.

Step 8: Remove element.

Step 9: Reverse Steps 1-7.

Step 10: Drink beer.

I did a search on the website and read the instructions for trouble shooting. I took the inside door off by taking the screws out. I pulled the part and tested it and found it did not in fact have no ampage. I then ordered the part on line. It came in two days, I plugged it in, put the door back together and the total time was about 15-20 minutes. Easy, simple, great instructions and the entire thing only costed me the part itself. It's working great now! And I've never worked on appliances before.

Worked the new gasket into the groove with a smooth screwdriver and my fingers. No leaks and it stays in place. Parts Select had the right part and I got it fast

Printed door assembly parts list and photo from KitchenAid website. (With the absence of instructions, it was a big help.) Remove door cover. You'll need a star driver bit. Remove the old dispenser. Note how the metal clamp and black cover sheet are positioned. Install the new dispenser. Insure the wiring harness is snapped in place. Replace the door cover. Not difficult; just some patience. One more hint ... be careful when taking the door cover off and you won't have to disconnect any other wiring.

The hardest part of this was figuring out the cause of the leak. It only leaked while the washer was running (arms spinning). I thought it might be the air intake seal at the lower part of the door-but that did not look damaged.
I cleaned off the door gasket really good and that slowed the leak - so I figured the gasket was the problem (plus changing the gasket is cheap and it was old anyway).

I pulled the old gasket off (no tools required).
I cleaned the track/slot that the gasket goes into, and the area around it from all the caked-on soap and gunk.
Cleaned off the door edge that seals with the gasket too.
I took the new gasket and folded it in half to find the middle, then started with the middle, putting it into the track (used the center door latch on the frame to know the middle on the washer).
I worked the gasket into the slot just with my fingers. I found that if I pinched the part that goes into the slot with my thumb/finger that helped get it deep into the slot without tools.
I worked around one side, slowly and carefully pushing it into the slot. Did the other side the same way - starting from the middle and working down to the end at the bottom of the washer. Checked the gasket to make sure it was all set in well.
There is an inch or so of the gasket left over at the bottom - I just bent that around the bend so it was not in the way.

i removed the top screw for the water input to the spinner, which gave me enough room to replace the worn nipple pin that the spinner snaps on to. then snapped the new spinner in place. and then screwed everything back into place.

The unit had power, but the controls would not work. The "clean" light was blinking. I first replaced the control unit, no help. I then used the "just ask" and was told the problem was the heating element and/or the hi-temp thermostat. I replaced both those and used the re-set code pushing the "hi-temp/air dry, hi-temp/air dry" buttons. That did it. Easy parts to locate and replace. It took longer pulling the unit out and putting it back than it did to replace the parts.

Removed the screws holding the metal front of the dishwasher on, removed the 6 screws holding the dispenser in place. Put the new part in and put all screws back in where they were. Put the front back on the dishwasher with its screws, done.

Opened door and installed cap. Not much effort. But really got good service from Parts Select. Received order much faster than I had expected.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

Initially we called a Sears Repair man and he came out only to push a few buttons and miraculously getting it to work for him. My husband and I both pushed these buttons SEVERAL times for a week and nothing! He charged us $80 for the call and told us condensation causes the control board to stick sometimes. He could replace the control board but it would cost us $250 for the part and an additional $200 to do the work. Then he said there was really nothing wrong with it. A day later and one complete wash later, same issue. This time I googled my model of dishwasher and happened upon your site. I found the part and we decided to fix it ourselves. The part was $190.we unscrewed the top of the dishwasher, took out the old control panel, being sure to mark the connections with tape so we knew how to put it all back together. Got the part in two days, connected it and easy peezy lemon squeezy! It all works perfectly great! I will never call an appliance repair man again without checking out this site first.

After replacing the thermal fuse 5 times i noticed the new packaging came with a terminal block on then fuse harness. PLEASE USE THIS. It is a must, it supposedly is acting as some type of heat sink or something for added protection. Used the unit on all cycles now and works great. Just follow fuse instructions precisely. Hope it helps.

Before starting the repair, I turned off electrical power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker.

Instructions for removing the door cover panel were included in my dishwasher installation manual. The instructions were in a section for adding a custom door panel. For my dishwasher, this only required removing six screws using a Torx (star shaped) driver, size T15. I found it possible to support the door cover by myself with a knee under one side and one hand wrapped around the opposite side, but another person would be helpful.

The electrical connector to the dispenser has a small tab to lock it in place. I gently pried the tab back a *little* and pulled out the connector.

There are six screws holding the dispenser in place. In this case, they were 5mm hex head screws. The screws hold a metal bracket in place and a vinyl flap is sandwiched between the bracket and the inner door panel. The vinyl flap has three holes, with two of the screws passing through the left and right holes, and the middle hold goes over a plastic tab on the dispenser.

After removing the bracket and vinyl flap, I found that there were two metal tabs holding the dispenser in place. These tabs are part of the door sheet metal. Gently prying them back a *little* released the dispenser (which would have fallen out if I hadn’t kept a hand on it).

I pushed the new dispenser through the opening until it clicked into place with the metal door tabs holding it. Then I put the vinyl flap in place with the middle hole over the plastic tab on top of the dispenser, and put the metal bracket over that and attached with the hex head screws.

Next, I reconnected the electrical wire to the dispenser, installed the door cover panel, turned on power at the circuit breaker, and tried a wash cycle. The new dispenser works great!