GU3200XTXB2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher under the counter top. Remove dust cover plates at the bottom of the machine. The machine will have to be pulled out, so turn off the water to the machine. Usually under the kitchen sink. Disconnect water supply and push it out of the way so the dishwasher can be pulled out. Pull machine out enough so you have access to the door cables and springs. The door will have to be in the closed(up) position to do the repair. Usually only one side is broken. Start with the broken side and copy the working side when installing new parts. Then repair the working side. To get the working side apart just pull on the spring and disconnect it from the cable. Do the reverse to reinstall.

First of all I appreciate the instructions provided by this site when I selected the part I needed! The installation was so easy. I popped the end caps off of the top rack guides and removed the top rack. I reach in and popped the clips holding the top sprayer bar and gently pulled down on the sprayer bar enough to place the spinner button in the top of the sprayer bar. Then pressed the spinner on the bottom of the sprayer bar into the button I place in the top of the sprayer bar and reattached the sprayer bar to the clips. Put the top rack back on the guides and replaced the guide caps and it was finished. Easy fix thanks to this site great instructions!

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...

Pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, removed faulty seal, installed new seal. Easy to understand directions are on web site.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

Removed 2 screws that fasten dishwasher to underside of countertop. Pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop for access to sides. Hooked link on door, threaded cord around 2 wheels, hooked spring to back of dishwasher, stretched spring and hooked to eye on end of link cord. I found it very difficult to hook spring to link then try and stretch spring to hole at back of dishwasher. Easier to pull spring and link towards each other and connect. Note: This link was actually different from the original. The plastic end that connects to the door actually hits the first wheel when door is closed but it doesn't seem to prevent the door from locking properly (old design was better). However, I shaved this plastic end to provide better clearance.

after all I read about the problems with Kitchenaid I figured it was the solenoid thats part of the soap dispenser. I took out all the screws on the door...2 long ones are on outer top...seperated it...took out all the screws on dispencer ring...replaced it...pluged it in and put the door back on. we ran it thru a cycle and the door now opens and makes lil soap bubbles.....another job well done by Hank in action! all the parts in door are easy to replace....

I removed broken mount by gently bending tabs, pressed new mount into upper dish rack, attached the spin arm and secured the mount with the screw.

A snap---it took less than 2 minutes after only a two day turnaround from ordering the part to receiving it at home..

Fantastic service. Thanks!!!!

I did not get to repair my dishwasher using the part supplied by Partselect.com. I pulled my dishwasher out and found that the connector had fallen of the capacitor during installation. Happy to say that I returned the part for a full refund minus the shipping. Have bought from them before, and will again

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF POWER _ Had to remove the screws using TORX driver on the inside door edge-- then came the hard part -- the foam insulation is glued to the inner door and the outer cover- I was able to finally separate the cover leaving the foam on the inner door. Then had to break off the foam insulation on the lower third of the door up from the bottom. I then had access to the screws holding the air inlet to the door. The screws are located so you can't get a straight shot at them and it is very difficult to get at them. These screws are hex head metric and very small. When they are removed the old air inlet will come right off. Take the new one and duct tape it in place inside the door and replace the screws. I recommend doing the outer ones first and since they are the easiest to get started, then you can fight the others a little easier. After the screws are replaced and tightened replace the lower half of the insulating foam by duct taping it to the foam that remained on the inner door. Then replace the outer cover and secure with the TORX screws. This was a time consuming and tough repair. I don't recommend it to a novice.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

really easy to repair... no power to control panel but had power from breaker box. Followed directions that came with part, self explanatory, took 10 mins.