DW324K1ABL0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

I am a 61 year old woman and it took me a total of 2 min. max. Popped it into place and pushed in button that holds it..Taa Daa...perfect!

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

Tried to clean old part and it did not work. Ordered the new part on Saturday and received it on Tuesday. Removed the old part and installed the new one. Ran the machine and it worked great. A big savings on not having to buy a new machine!!

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.

Removed the old tines by pushing out the clips on the end and then installed the new tines and applied clips - took 10 minutes worked slick and the washer basket looks to be brand.

Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.

I took the unit apart to find out what was making the loud noise and found the seal on the main pump had been leaking ito the bearing on the motor.

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!

put new hose on, very easy.

Removed required hardware and dishwasher from undercounter mount. Turned dishwasher on its front and removed the old motor. Installed the new motor and tested for function. Installed once test was successful.

Turn off breaker to dishwasher.
Remove lower basket.
Drain any water using a wet vac.
Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver.
Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
Disconnect plug wire on pump.
Install new pump by turning clock wise.
Reattach wire plug.
Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks.
Replace cover plate.
Done.

I am NOT an appliance technician. I am simply a somewhat handy homeowner. Removal of outer door panel requires removal of two screws from inside the top of the door assembly at the latch, as well as all of the obvious mating screws from around the perimeter of the inside of the door assembly. Use a #15 torx driver bit. Pull top of panel out (away from the machine) by maybe two inches, then lift the outer panel up to clear the bottom end of it from the lower positioning brackets. DO NOT lever the top of the panel outward. Keep it close to the inner door. It may take bit of an upward tug to dislodge. Careful here - the outer panel will simply fall free. Two wire pigtails that are connected to components on the inner door are short, so be careful not to strain them after dislodging the outer panel. One is connected to the dispenser. Disconnect both as to provide good clearance for the component replacement. The main wire harness is of sufficient length as to not cause a problem. The six 3/16 hex head screws holding the dispenser in place are easy to remove. There are two small sheet metal tabs that keep the device in place after the screws are removed, but a rectangular mounting frame or bezel will come off, along with the little black curtain that protects the unit. The tabs are at upper left and lower right at the perimeter of the opening in the inner panel. They must be levered gently as to allow the dispenser to push inward for removal. After removal, spend some time cleaning the inner surface of the inner panel as to ensure that the new device will make a watertight contact when fastened in place. Bend the tabs slightly back to an inward position, and install the new dispenser with the socket and motor to your left as you look at it from outside the machine. It clicks in to place and stays put. The bezel mounts only one way (in terms of being upside down) and the flat surface must be toward the inner door. Re-positioning the little black curtain is tricky but if you follow the marks in the material from the previous mount it should work out OK. Tighten the screws evenly as to ensure a good seal. Move the outer cover closer and reconnect the two plugs. Use an object to wedge the inner door open by a few inches, and lift the front panel such that you can position it and slide it back down on the inner panel as to re-engage the lower holding brackets. This keeps the bottom of the panel in place during the reassembly. Now for the fun part... The upper end of the outer panel has to be positioned just right against the inner panel in order to seat the two long screws that straddle the latch assembly from the inside. You'll need clamps, or two people. There's a flat rubber seal on the top edge of the inner door. See that it is seated properly, and then that it becomes covered by the outer panel. If one person firmly holds the panels precisely in position, then the other person can install the screws to a point of being mildly snug. The other two longer screws go in the top-most holes at the upper/outer corners of the door assembly. Place them next. From there, you can carefully replace all the rest of the screws. Only after all of the screws are in place should you make all of them tight. You're done.