DP940PWKM1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

after that every thing went very well

Very easy,take off the old faucet screen and screw on the adapter. What I really liked was the ease of ordering the part. In less than 5 minutes I had located the part and ordered it. Less than 3 days later, I had the part. Way to go PartSelect.

used a screw driver, removed 2 screws, removed broken piece, screwed in new part ....all done :)
took less than 15 minutes to do*

i just wanted to let everyone know..I ordered the part on a monday and received it on wednesday I was amazed...the part fit perfectly ...and was very easy to install myself....ty so much ...

It was very simple, the repair took less than 5 minutes start to finish. I removed the top dish rack, took out two screws and the broken part slipped right off the water feed tube. I slipped the new upper wash assembly on the end of the tube and replaced one screw. My dishwasher is an older model and the new part only has a hole for one screw but I cannot tell any difference in stability or performance. I put the top rack back on and the dishwasher is as good as before.

Simple easy twist on and off replacement.

Removed spray bar by removing the plastic finger thumb screw and replace as shown by you web page. Very simple.

I poked the old gasket with a fork tine so I could get a grip on the old gasket as I didn't have pliars, pulled it out in less than 4 seconds, folded the new gasket in half and started center top of the slot the old gasket was in and pushed the new gasket in on each side from the top to the bottom. Very easy. I'd say it took me longer to open the package with my teeth than in doing all of the above.

First I removed the nut holding down the lower washarm in place. I then lifted up the lower washarm where it's held in place by the nut. I replaced the two new parts: The lower sprayarm seal that seats underneath the lower washarm and the washarm bearing ring that seats on the top of the lower washarm just underneath the nut. A schematic parts list diagram can be downloaded on the KitchenAid website. The wobbling motion of the lower washarm still seems to have the same amount of play as it had before I replaced the two parts. The lower washarm itself is in fine shape including the nut. I even attempted several other different ways to install the seal and bearing ring, yet the washarm still wobbles when I manually spin it. I called KitchenAid to find out if wobbling of the lower washarm was normal. Unfortunately, the person I spoke to didn't seem to me to knowledgable enough in this area.

just put the pieces where they belonged and tighten the screws. it longer to figure out how it was supposed to fit than the actual fixing.

This is a portable dishwasher.. so first I turned power off and connected water line. When I turned the water on I noticed the water would flow into the dishwasher. This is not suppose to happen. This told me it was the flow valve. I disconnected water line, turned power off and removed bottom plate, removed screw holding valve on, removed water hose and output hose and unplugged valve. Then installed new valve. Turned water on to test and water did not flow into unit until cycle started. So simple. Problem solved in 10 minutes.

After removing the upper rack, I started to remove the screws holding the assembly on. The screws would not back out readily without prying on them a little because they were installed with some sort of caulking substance. Consequently, the old screws would not thread in securely and tighten up because all the material around the threads came out with the screws. I had to go to the hardware store and buy the next size up in diameter to get it to thread in and hold. I also tried to punch a pilot hole in the side where there was no hole in the replacement part and the ear broke off partially because the plastic is so brittle (mistake on my part). There was still enough of the ear after I carved out half a screw hole to still insert a screw and get it to hold on that side. It would be nice if that part was made with two holes to adequately secure the part.

I ordered the parts from parts select and was pleasantly suprised at the diagnostic diagrams, the home install video, and the quality and pricing of the parts. I had ordered just the top bearing a few years ago and did not realized the bottom seal was bad also. I found the seal pushed down around the pump housing which caused excessive ware on the pump housing top and the top of the wash arm because the gap in the lower seal expanded over 1/4 inch causing the wear on the top of the wash are. This job is normally very easy. Unscrew the thumb screw on top, remove old bearing, pull off the wash arm, remove old seal. Then just put new seal on top of pump (check for any burrs and remove with a fine grit emory sand paper) put on the wash arm, insert top bearing and tighten finger nut tight. I had excessive wear (due to age of unit and lower seal not in proper position), so I had to construct a spacer to take up some of the slack. I could not find a nylon washer(and you need nylon) in the stores ready made and did not want rubber or metal washers due to the adverse effects these would have on the new bearing. I improvised. I purchased a pack of 10 nylon wall anchor washers from Menards (after they said no nylon washers were available:) I used 2 inch O.D. washers with 1/4 inch I.D. which was a perfect center hole and used a drill to enlarge center from 1/4 inch to 1 inch I.D. (to fit around the finger nut screw stem), and removed all burrs. Unscrewed top finger nut and placed under nut on top of seal and the 1/8 inch width took up the slack. Problem solved.

As described with instructions, removed original "bearing," installed replacement, removed original spring, installed replacement springs. Not difficult.

Repair went exactly like the video i watched online. Perfect

I took the assembly off the basket re[laced the new tube and them reassembled it