DU1000CGZ1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the washer from the cabinet, although the repair kit could have been replaced without this step. However, it still made it easier. Removed the spray arm assembly and the top cover to the motor. I had to block the motor to keep it from turning while I unscrewed part number 11. The rest was very self explanatory. The "impeller" was seized onto the motor shaft (20 years old) so I had to use a chisel to break what remained off, then clean some corrosion from the shaft. The repair kit worked and the pictorial parts diagram that came with the kit was very clear. Bottom line: "Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!" Great web site for diagnosis and parts diagrams!

The repair was simple except for removing the thread portion of the old retainer nut from the lower housing. I had to remove the lower housing and separate the male threads of the old plastic nut from the female threads in the lower housing. That took 25 minutes since I did not want to ruin the female threads. Once removed, the new parts went into place easily.

The repair went well with the major problem being I replaced the drain hose without removing the dishwasher from it's position. Due to this I removed the drain end with out being able to see the hose and put it back on by feel. Over all I was back up and running with in 30 minutes and everything has worked very well so far.

The old spring on the detergent dispenser box door failed and the dispenser door would not pop open at the right time in the wash cycle.

Ordering the new spring was easy on the website. Need dishwasher model number, stock number and serial number.

Hint - Order at least 2 springs! They are not expensive.

I followed the instructions in the video. I could get the spring on the spindle correctly but could not get the two spring prongs to catch to create spring tension on the door without using a thin knife blade to carefully push each prong to where it caught on the dispenser door.

I needed to slide the prongs slowly and carefully to get them to catch on the door. This distorted the spring. That's why you really need two springs. I then used needle nose pliers to pull the latching part of the spring to catch on the inner door. That distorts the spring, too.

So you really need two springs. One spring to learn how to do it and a second one to replace the one you distorted as you learned.

Take care

WATCHED THE VIDEO FOR 2 MINUTES. REPLACED THE 3 PARTS IN LESS THAN A MINUTE. THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS.

It was a piece of cake, just slapped together and slid it into place!

Pulled the old gasket out with needle nose pliers, cleaned the slot for the gasket, installed the new gasket, needed no tools. This repair took 5 min.

After turning off the water to the dishwasher, I used the adjustable wrench to remove the incoming water line. Then removed the electrical feed to the water valve. Lastly I removed the rubber hose on the outlet of the valve (after compressing the retaining clip) before removing the one screw that held the valve to the lower frame of the dishwasher. Once the new part arrived, it was simply a matter of reversing the above procedure to install the new part. Took under 15 mins.

Removed the plugs in the slides, removed the rack, slid the new rack in and replaced the plugs.

I ordered a dishwasher soap dispenser "lid assembly". When it arrived, it was not an assembly at all but only a lid. I had to reorder a pin and spring, When i finally had every thing, it was an easy repair.

I first had to take the upper drawer of the dishwasher out so that I could get to the faulty part. This was a little tricky as there were two clips that had to be removed from the arm slides before the upper drawer could be removed.
I then realized that the faulty part DID NOT exactly match the repair part I received. The original connection wand was in two pieces where the repair part was all one piece. That required a bit of thought before I began the repair. There was NO drawing accompanying the new part, so I had to decide how the part would be connected. After a little trial and error, I determined the arrangement of the repair part and completed the repair. All in all, it went well, but there was a few anxious moments when I first saw the difference between the original part and the new part.

Turned off water and electrical. Removed kickplate at bottom of dishwasher. Unhooked water line, electrical plug and unscrewed valve from frame, noting proper position of valve for new install. The only delay we had was removing the old water line fitting from old valve. We needed the old fitting for the new valve. We solved the problem by soaking valve in boiling hot water to help loosen the connection. Install of new valve was reverse of the removal process. My son did the work and saved me approximately $200 for a service call. I also want to say that ordering the part from your company was less expensive than if I had ordered it locally and gone to pick it up! Your website is extremely helpful, user friendly, and I am recommending it to all my friends when they need to repair an appliance. Thank you!

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

I bought the kit because it had other parts that I thought I needed.

Was very easy to replace broken spring which required each end of spring to be reconnected to bracket located on the door and frame of the dishwasher. Was able to complete without moving the entire dishwasher frame.