7DU910PFGB0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I pulled off the old clips and easily replaced them with the new clips and popped on the wheels.
I replaced 8 clips and 8 wheels in less than 15mins

Removed 5 or 6 screws replaced O ring,Srewed cover back on ,no more leak.

Removed dishwasher, take to garage, removed lower rack to gain access to top of motor unit. Used star socket wrench to remove upper screws holding top of unit in. Disconnect wires, drain tube and counter weight. pulled motor unit out from inside dishwasher and placed on bench. Proceeded to disassemble motor. Some things were obvious, others not so. replaced old worn out parts with new, used a little lube (Vaseline) in places to assist in getting seals back in place. Instructions were of little help need to pay close attention when tearing unit apart. Reassembled with new seals, installed motor and re-installed dishwasher...NO LEAKS!! Wife and I happy.

Had to pull the dishwashwer out to replace the latch. Did this by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the Dishwashwer to the under side of the counter. Dishwasher then pulled out easily. Then unscrewed to screws on the latch. The screws were accessed by pulling out the modling/strip around the dishwasher door. Also easy to replace the screws. But sliding it back in was a little harder. Had to shorten the front legs on the dishwashwer to get the back of the dishwasher to go back in. Then screw the front legs back out. Finally re-inserted the screws under the counter that attached the top of the Dishwasher to the counter top.

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

There were no instructions with the part, but looking at the old rack it was simple to see how the parts should be assembled. Took the center part from the old rack, twisted off, and applied it to the center of the new rack. Snapped on the wheels and was done. Very simple assembly.

Simply removed deflectors and gasket, replaced all , took all of 5 mins. workes great now.

The old gasket came out easily, but had calcium deposits in area. I cleaned the area with vinegar and water and waited until it was completely dry. The new gasket went in very easily and looked great. I started the dishwasher and alas, it still leaks, so the problem was apparently not with the gasket, but some other area. But the gasket is nice and new. Any suggestions on next step0 in troubleshooting?

first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.

i took off the kick plate and found the water valve. its the piece that water comes to from under the sink to connect to the dishwaser. it has a plug with 2 wires. i turned off the water supply, disconnected the wires(probably should have flipped the breaker but didnt) took out the 5/16 mounting screws, had to use a little end wrench on 1 because it was behind the water line and a nut driver on the other. i put some thread gook on the connection and put the new one in the way it was and it works great. i am writing this because thats where i got the info to diagnose in the first place and saved me $$$!

The cap.nozzle is critical in transferring water to the
upper wash tray in the "heavy wash" cycle only. If this part is defective, simply unscrew it by hand and install the new one by hand in seconds. This
part is inactive in the "light wash" cycle.

Look for deteriation in the black rubber area of the
cap. nozzle.

Ordering and tracking the shipment was a breeze,
everything was very easy to do !!!!

first I removed lower basket. then removed lower sprayer attached to pump housing by unscrewing the cap by hand. the I removed the pump cover . there were six alan screw two of them were missing causing the failure of the seal spraying solution at the door. replaced the pumpseal working backwards until everthing was replaced.

actually my wife did the repair. she unsrewed the water sprayer and removed it, then unscrewd the star key screws and then replaced the seal. she put everything back the way it was and it is now ready to use and we no longer have the problem.
just a suggestion...if you take some baking soda and some vinager you can clean the drain out. just simply poor in the soda and then the vinager.and it will fiz cleaning your drain.

I followed the video available on partselect.com and was easily able to follow step by step the process of removing and reinstalling a new Drain and Wash Impeller and Check Ball.

All I had to do is lay the shield over the top and sides and used a couple of clips to hold in place as it was slid under the counter top. It couldn’t have been easier.We had searched everywhere for this replacement shield and parts select was the the only ones that had it. Very good service and fast delivery,