MDB7949SDH0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

In this case the dishwasher had already been installed for a few years. After removing it, we inspected it and saw it needed a bit of TLC. The transport wheels on the back were missing, making it harder to move around without scratching the tile and some of the original hardware was rusted or broken off. I looked up the parts easily here on PartsSelect using their parts breakdown diagrams and was glad to see what I needed was still available. We had a licensed plumber relocate the hot water line and drain for us to make things a bit easier.
A licensed electrician had also moved the power line over to the new location and left a wire sticking out of the bottom of the wall to hardwire the dishwasher in again. We decided to convert the dishwasher to be able to be plugged into a standard 20amp wall outlet instead. We had already purchased a kit with a nice long cord and strain-relief snap on plastic fitting that snapped onto the metal incoming power box on the bottom front of the dishwasher. Using the supplied wire nuts, etc., we connected the wires and ground wire to the proper wires from the dishwasher and ground lug. We put the dishwasher aside and then went to work on converting the power wire coming out of the bottom of the wall, to a conventional outlet. I am mentioning all this because in our first attempt we unfortunately put the receptacle a bit high off the floor and the new power cord plug end, stuck out and hit the back of the dishwasher so it would not go all the way in and was sticking out from under the counter top. I tried using one of those flat adapter cables, but even that still stuck out to far. So we ended up relocating the outlet box as low as we could on the wall and this allowed the plug to stick out into the opening area at the bottom rear area of the dishwasher so it could now be slid all the way in under the kitchen counter properly. I hope that bit of trial and error will save you some time if you ever decide to go the pluggable route too.
The new installation required the use of the dishwasher side mount brackets, so we had to purchase a replacement set of those, complete with the hardware to screw them down.

This project took a bit longer than planned due to the power plug problem, one which we will remember for any other similar appliance relocation projects, as well as the time to get our new parts in that we had to order, but other than that the rest went smoothly and the dishwasher was relocated successfully.

Used a YouTube video.
Easy as pie.

Removed lower kick panel and there it was on the left hand side. Removed the waterline and removed the mounting screws. Disconnected the inlet waterline into the dishwasher. Removed the bad inlet valve and replaced in reverse order.

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Very, Very easy - watched the Installation Video highlighted on web page and the entire process took less than 5 minutes!

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Followed the parts list diagram and confirmed with the link on the other side of door. Hooked the plastic attachment to the door, threaded the string around the plastic pulleys, attached the spring and mount it to the back of the dishwasher. that was it! Very easy to do. Hardest part was sliding the dishwasher out and in.

Thank you for letting me share my repair experience with you.
I removed the two screws that hold the diswasher to the wooden cabinet. Lowered the leveling adjustment screws on bottom of unit, then slid out the diswasher from inside the cabinet.
Then ordered the new lanyard. Waited one week day and the order arrived via mail. It has two lanyars and new rotating pulley assemblies for both sides of the door. I loosened the bottom screw on the old pully assembly and refitted the new pulleys in same location. (very easy). I then refitted spring to back of unit (with blue line toward front), then fitted the lanyard to the spring. Pulled lanyard thru the pulley. Had to have nice wife connect the other side of the lanyard to the post as I extended the spring on the side of the unit. We completed same steps on other side of the unit. After completing the door lanyard repair, I slid the dishwasher in the cabinet, re-leveled the unit with the front adjustment screw, then incerted the cabinet screws into the wooden cabinet. I feel this was quite a savings to us. Thanks to nice individuals on the internet and partselect.com, who provided excellent service to me....and my family. I also can see the end result of my effort, which is a nice feeling.
Thank you.

First we removed the two screws up under the countertop that secured the dishwasher in place. Next we pulled the d/w out from under the counter, having to unplug the power cord and feeding the drain hose into the d/w cavity from under the kitchen sink to allow this. On each side, attached to a metal spring was a nylon cord with plastic attachments that ran through two plastic pullies/wheels. The plastic piece on one of the nylon cords had broken...only on one side, so we were able to just look at the 'good' side to see how to attach and string the repair part through again. We pushed the d/w back in, made sure the drain hose under the kitchen sink wasn't kinked by pulling it back under the sink from the d/w cavity, plugged it in, replaced the two securing screws and were done. The old cord running through the pullies had always creaked when the door was opened, so while the d/w was out, we coated it w/ WD40. Piece-of-cake!

The door balance springs are connected to the door via a nylon cable which snakes through a couple of pulleys. The plastic fastener on the end of one of these cables separated, so the one remaining spring was not able to offset the weight of the door. Easy to fix, just slide the unit out about 15 inches (remove base plate, and undo a couple screws on top) then replace cables. You can buy just the one cable, or for a couple bucks more, both L&R cables and new pulleys. Replaced the pulleys on my unit at the same time (remove one screw and twist out) since the replacement parts were of better quality than my factory parts. Don’t pay a repair guy $250 or more to fix this for you. It’s easy.

I pulled the dishwasher out just over half way to access the spring area. Unscrewed the old assembly and screwed the new one in it's place. Attached the string line to the spring, wrapped it around the assembly and attached it to the door hook. Repeated procedure on other side. Problem solved.

Pulled out dishwasher to access the sides. Removed onld lines and then unscrewed pulley from frame using socket / nutdriver. Replaced pulleys with new units supplied in the kit and then threaded new lines onto door and springs. Repair complete in less than 5 minutes.

We snapped the old one off --it did not break. We positioned the new one in the right place making sure that the slot in the middle matched up with the longitudinal wire of the rack and snapped it in place. EASY!

Easy. Just watched video.