MDB5969SDM0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled the dishwasher out and took the two door balance links off and put the new ones on and attached to the spring. It was very quick and easy

Our dishwasher's top rack would pull too far out which made it hard to stay in alignment. It had lost it's track stop. I easily ordered the part from PartSelect, and it came more quickly than I expected; I clicked it in place and it runs like new. It's wonderful to deal with a company that knows the frustration of not having your appliance in good working orfer.
Thank you.
Sue M
Masdsachusetts

Very, Very easy - watched the Installation Video highlighted on web page and the entire process took less than 5 minutes!

I had to replace the whole sliding system on the top rack. Plus the clips holding it. It snapped. I watched the video and did the steps from Steve. The rack slides better than when brand new. Whirlpool wouldn’t pick up phone but part select did. So thank you for being there so I could fix the rack and be able to use the dishwasher again.

Husband watched your repair video. Everything went well and we are very pleased.

I manually attached the track stop to the right track in the disheasher.

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

Step 1. Cut off water supply. Step 2. Remove two screws from bottom plate to remove the plate. Step 3. Check that drain line and power supply have enough slack to move the unit out from under the cabinet. Step 4. Remove two screws from top frame that secure the unit to the cabinet framing (note my counter-top is granite so framing goes across the top of the unit; so units are secured directly to the countertop). Step 5. Disconnect water supply line and place something, i.e., a plate, old towel, etc. to catch excess water in the supply line. Step 6. Lower leveling feet to provide clearance to remove the unit. Step 7. Pull unit carefully from under cabinet to access both sides so Door Balance Link Kit is accessible, checking for tension on drain line and power supply line (see Step 3.) as you are pulling out the unit. Step 8. Remove broken Door Balance Link Kit (pay attention to how the rope is positioned around the pulleys; using your phone to take a picture before you disassemble the kit is a good idea). Note-the replacement kit is different in design/appearance (not function) from the OEM part. This should be clearly stated in the "Description" paperwork accompanying the part but it is not. Step 9. Install the new Door Balance Link Kit exactly as the replaced one. It is important to note that there was no spring tension when the broken part was removed so re-attaching the part with the spring attached takes some strength because of the tension. I recently (9 weeks ago) had two brain surgeries; my right arm was paralyzed following the second surgery. Although I am recovering fine, I have not gained my hand strength back completely. I used a screwdriver to stretch the spring back to the attachment point which allowed me to slip the spring into the hole. If you have to use this method or a similar technique, use extreme caution. The spring is strong and if it slips could cause an injury or damage. I strongly suggest that while the unit is out that you replace the other (non-damaged) Door Balance Link Kit. It's had the same wear as the broken and its likely to break soon. Again, if you have the hand strength to remove the spring by stretching it to disconnect it, that is the best approach. But, if you do not have the hand strength, simply take a pair of channel-locks, grasp the end of the spring to stretch the spring to remove tension on the rope and hold it while cutting the rope. Release the tension on the spring and repeat steps 8 & 9 to install the second kit. Step 10. Move the unit back into position to attach the water supply line and then attach the water supply line. Step 11. Carefully reposition the unit back into place checking to make sure the water line, drain line, and power supply are not crimped. Step 12. Once in position, use leveling feet to raise the unit to its proper height while checking to make sure it is square/level. Step 13. Replace the screws removed in Step 4. Step 14. Run the machine through a quick wash before replacing the bottom plate to verify there are no water leaks, crimped hoses, etc. Step 15. Replace the bottom plate (see Step 2.).

repaired exactly as your video described......hardest part it getting unit out from under cabinet and back in.

Pulled the dishwasher out and removed the plastic pulley on the bottom of the unit. Installed the new pulley. wrapped the string assy. around the pulley and attached it to the spring and reinstalled it to the back of the dishwasher. We discovered the front bracket on the dishwasher door was bent slightly causing the string to rub and probably is what caused the string to break. We bent the bracket back into shape and reinstalled the dishwasher in its cavity.

Followed a repair video.

My husband managed, with some difficulty, to finally replace the broken spring and associated door balance kit. He first ordered the spring from this site. Then, after he had laboriously rolled the dishwasher out about 12" - using flat pieces of wood as support, while he lowered the dishwasher onto his homemade rollers - he realized that the corded door balance kit was also broken. So he rolled the DW back in and ordered the part. This site sent an improved door balance kit, and then he went through the same process again. He had to fish the spring back all the way to the very back of the DW and hook it through a hole, using a rod and masking tape (bad DW design, he says). Then after he rolled it back, he noticed a leak in the incoming hot water connector, at the copper pipe compression fitting. Fortunately, a local plumber, with the right tool and expertise was able to quickly fix that problem. (The plumber explained that compression fittings commonly begin leaking if even slightly moved.) Bottom line: A+ for this site, C for KitchenAid design. He says he'd undertake it again, in spite of the hassle.

I watched my son as he pulled dishwasher out part way. The space was a little tight, but he did a fine job of replacing with a new string.

Using Phillips screw driver, removed 2 screws at top of unit, slid it out from under counter. Removed and replaced both sides. The hardest part was to keep the blanket on the unit which I solved with duct tape. Slid the unit back in place and works fine. The repair man wanted $29 to come out and $150. To repair

Fairly easy. Undid the two screws on the kick plate. Then used pliers to undo the leveling legs and pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet. The dishwasher is hard-wired with extra electric cable. The drainage tube is flexible and there is extra so I did not have to worry about disconnecting anything. I then attached the new door cable link to the spring. Using the Needle-nosed Vise Grips I pulled the cable so I had enough to make the connection on the door piece. Done. Then I put everything back.