JDB8700AWS4 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Very, Very easy - watched the Installation Video highlighted on web page and the entire process took less than 5 minutes!

Removed lower kick panel and there it was on the left hand side. Removed the waterline and removed the mounting screws. Disconnected the inlet waterline into the dishwasher. Removed the bad inlet valve and replaced in reverse order.

Followed the u tube video. No problems. Will use them again.

Best recommendation I can give.

I watched the provided video and followed the very easy installation instructions. It was awesome.

Pulled dishwasher from under the counter and replaced the plastic part with the new part and attached the new cord to the door spring and to the replacement plastic part. replaced the dishwasher under the counter and replaced the kick plate. All Done.

cut power to dishwasher. removed screws all around door panel to get front panel off, leaving top two screws for last. unplugged latch set, removed it. set new one in. screwed top 2 screws in. fit door panel back on. pulled out latch hook from stationary top piece and clicked new on in place.

Pulled the dishwasher out and removed the plastic pulley on the bottom of the unit. Installed the new pulley. wrapped the string assy. around the pulley and attached it to the spring and reinstalled it to the back of the dishwasher. We discovered the front bracket on the dishwasher door was bent slightly causing the string to rub and probably is what caused the string to break. We bent the bracket back into shape and reinstalled the dishwasher in its cavity.

Followed a repair video.

I watched my son as he pulled dishwasher out part way. The space was a little tight, but he did a fine job of replacing with a new string.

Ordered the part. Called my son who brought over his toolkit. Played him the repair video on my iPad and he replaced both Door Balance Links. Door works great now.

Video was great help. Replacing the balance parts was easy. My wife and I are in our 80's. Mobility is difficult when it comes to working on the floor. Between the two of us we spent the majority of our time just getting up and down,

Hardest part of job was sliding dishwasher out. Put in wood floors so limited free space. Had to lower fron foot pegs first, then remove 2 screws from top that held unit steady. Once dishwasher was out a good 16" cords were easy to replace. Did not replace bracket that came with kit. Cords attach to heavy duty spring.

My 2 yr old sat on the dishwasher door while it was open. It snapped both the links on the door causing the dishwasher door to drop every time it was ajar. It was a real danger to the kids or to anyone else unaware of the door given its weight.

I ordered the part from Part Select based model and some of the posts that it was something you can do yourself. Park Select was outstanding as got the part next day and got direction from others (thank you). I did not have either side of the door working so no real gauge but finally understood how it worked once I did a search online for a picture.

Recommendation: if both links (rope) are broken, you will need to hunt down the springs on side/back of machine. The part with small hole connects to the spring, the other to the door. Make a reverse S with the rope through the pully system for tention. I did not initially do the reverse S and the part popped of the door once I closed it. Otherwise, easy thing to do and certainly do not need a repair person.....if you need picture, do a search on dishwasher door pully system

My husband managed, with some difficulty, to finally replace the broken spring and associated door balance kit. He first ordered the spring from this site. Then, after he had laboriously rolled the dishwasher out about 12" - using flat pieces of wood as support, while he lowered the dishwasher onto his homemade rollers - he realized that the corded door balance kit was also broken. So he rolled the DW back in and ordered the part. This site sent an improved door balance kit, and then he went through the same process again. He had to fish the spring back all the way to the very back of the DW and hook it through a hole, using a rod and masking tape (bad DW design, he says). Then after he rolled it back, he noticed a leak in the incoming hot water connector, at the copper pipe compression fitting. Fortunately, a local plumber, with the right tool and expertise was able to quickly fix that problem. (The plumber explained that compression fittings commonly begin leaking if even slightly moved.) Bottom line: A+ for this site, C for KitchenAid design. He says he'd undertake it again, in spite of the hassle.

Upper basket removed because I could not take half the retainers