WDF330PAHD2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

removed and installed cords with screw driver

The old filter simply unscrews and the new one screws in.

It is a small plastic piece which serves as a stop on the right side of the upper rack. It is the correct part because it is identical to the left one of the same type. I tried clamping down with a pair of pliers but I am afraid of breaking it. With shipping this two inch piece of plastic cost $20, so I do not want to crack it. I am at a loss as to how to sit in in place.

Watched a video and seen how easy it was to repair. Just disconnect the power, water and return drain. two bolts and replace element . The difficult part was removing and replacing the dishwasher...piece of cake.

Just click in, you can basically do it with your eyes closed

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

Snap new track stop into place. Took a few minutes to figure out top/bottom and inside/outside, but no issues

Kill power to unit. Turn off water supply. Remove front access panel. Remove screw holding valve housing. Remove valve. Disconnect water lines. Replace valve in housing. Reconnect water lines with addition of thread tape. Reinstall valve and housing.

easy the sensor was on the right side, and easy to get to, I turn off the power, turned off the water, and pulled it out, the first thing I saw was the yellow wires and plug. took about 5 minutes, to replace it.

The circulation pump is a super easy fix and the installation video parts select has on its website is accurate. I felt the most difficult part of the repair was removing the dishwasher from the kitchen counter to make the repairs. After you get the dishwasher out, you pretty much just pop the old pump out with your hands and a flat head screwdriver. (The supplied video is spot on ) Installing the new pump will require a pinch plier or a hose clamp. I chose a new hose clamp as it is cheaper and I would never use the pinch pliers after this job.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

I manually attached the track stop to the right track in the disheasher.

I had to replace the whole sliding system on the top rack. Plus the clips holding it. It snapped. I watched the video and did the steps from Steve. The rack slides better than when brand new. Whirlpool wouldn’t pick up phone but part select did. So thank you for being there so I could fix the rack and be able to use the dishwasher again.

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

First i turned off the water and the power, then removed the two screws to the access panel under the door. Then remove 1 screw to the electrical box and removed the wire nuts and pulled the cable out of the box. Then disconect the water supply which is up front, but very little room to work. I didn't have to diconnect the drain hose because it was long enough for me to pull out the machine. After removing to screws that hold the machine to the counter you can pull it out. Remove 2 wire from the terminals of the heat coil. Unscrew the plastic nuts from the washer and remove. Assemble in reverse order and check for leaks. I tested the old element as well as the new element for resistance before installing.