DP400PD1 Uni Dishwasher - Instructions

Nothing to it. Just inserted the iron stud into the center wheel and pressed the bracket onto the stud.

Spotted the source of the leak at the first heating element under the dishwasher. Removed the brass mounting nut and it was cracked. Replaced with new part from PartSelect.com and the leak was fixed. Apparently the heating element gets so hot it tends to crack the mounting nuts, which results in a leak. Delivery time for part said 3-5 days - mine arrived one day after ordered!

2 wheels were missing and I replaced them in 2 seconds. The diagram online was a huge help!

I removed the 2 screws that hold the dishwasher in place. Slide out the unit just far enough to access the brass nuts on the heating element. Pulled off the wire, and replaced the broken nut with the new nut. Replaced the wire, slide the unit back into place and reattached the 2 under counter screws. Done!!!

Removed front toe kick plate, removed elect.wire, Lifted heating element up replaced old gromet seal put element back through tub put new not on the element and tighetend up with One half inch deep socket ,Replaced plastic wire cover over element spade conector replaced electric wire on to element. Start machine checked r leak, replace toe kick plate.......... Done

This dishwasher has a plastic bolt that holds the actuator on. The action loosens the bolt and it wobbles and eventually comes off. After enough attempts the bolt will strip and need to be replaced. I took some 3M loctite this time to hold it in place. It is 24 years old, but still kicking

power off, take off kickplate, unplug 2 wires and unscrew broken nuts, put new nuts on, plug wires back in,(run dishwasher one cycle to make sure no leaks) put kickplate back on, power on.

Thanks to PartsSelect exploded drawings, it was easy to identify and order the part. Installing was a case of just snapping it on the rack.

Used a deep 13 mm socket to remove the old nuts, one of which was split which is what caused the problem. I installed the new grommets with the aid of a little olive oil and then I had to wiggle the element very slightly (more olive oil on the heating element where it slips in the grommet) while pressing down on the element. It slipped into place and then I reinstalled the new nuts and the wires and it was done. One word of caution the stainless mounts that hold the heating element are very sharp on the edges. If you use gloves and move them very easy to prevent damage to the mounts it will be easy to replace the grommets and the nuts.

Got the parts in a DAY! Wheels were broken and worn causing top tray to slip off runners- new wheels were easy to put in-used the screwsfrom the old ones and banged out the job in about 20 minutes, including letting my son help. Thanks Partselect, you've hooked a new DIY'er (my son)

There was an excellent "how to" video on the internet which also pointed me to the part I needed. I did not even remove the dishwasher as recommended. I removed the lower kick plate, removed the power connector at the leaking input, removed the bad nut and installed the new nut.

Laid over portable dishwasher and looked for evidence of a leak.Nothing obvious. Looked up Illustrated parts breakdown to see what could be the possible source and settled on the main seal on the water pump between the washing machine itself and the motor. Also replaced grommets on the heating element.She hasn't used it yet but am confident problem is solved.

husband replaced wheels.

first I shut off power at breaker then took off bottom panel,removed old nuts had a problem with the 1 in the back had to remove a few wires to be able to reach in.Then i open door removed dishwasher rack and heater element notice that the hole was rusted out a little so I cleaned area up and used permatex silicone all the area installed the new grommets replaced the heating element put it all back together will test for leaks after silicone cures