RUD3000DB1 Roper Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed vidio instructionson web site. Quick easy fix

Bought a house and with it can an old whirlpool dishwasher in where the soap dispenser lid would latch, as the latch itself was gone. Ordered the latch from part select and used the installation video to switch the latch out. Only problem I came across was that the torx screws at top of he door were free spinning. Ended up using a flat head for leverage to finally get the screws out. Everything works perfectly for once.

I just followed the video, and it now works perfectly! Thanks SOOO much! great site, great info.

we followed your instructions submitted via e-mail and they worked out just fine....thank you

Removed and installed new door gasket which I found to be a simple task. Ran dishwasher and it still leaked. I then looked at other repairs submitted by your customers with the same problem. One had mentioned removing the lower spray arm and checking the screws around the pump. Sure enough, 2 screws were nearly ready to fall out and all others were loose. Tightened those, reinstalled spray arm, ran the dishwasher and no leaks. A big "Thanks" to you and also to other customers for sharing both their problem and how they were able to fix it. It sure saved me some money!!

The repair was very simple. Simply pull the dishwasher out far enough to access the springs, remove the old with pliers and install the new springs in the same spot as the old ones.

i took the inside door off and took the 2 switches out and replaced them; not too difficult.

Trial and error. The spring was difficult to install, the pin and door were easy.

1. Turn off the electrical switch that powers the dishwasher. 2. Open the door of the dishwasher and find the two phillips head screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the kitchen counter. 3. Remove the screws. 4. Gently move the machine side-by-side a bit while pulling it out onto the kitchen tile (be careful, the water-supply hose, electric cord, and dishwasher drain hose may not be long enough to allow you to pull it out very far - don't break or kink the hoses). 5. Remove (pull off) the black plastic fastener located on the bottom/rear of each side of the dishwasher. 6. Remove the old surround. 7. Lay the new wrap in place and secure with the two plastic fasteners. 8. Push back into place, secure the two screws, check your hoses.

I replaced the seal, still leaked. Once I noticed that it was only leaking from the left side, we did a Google search to find that the screen in the upper left of the door could be the issue, causing back pressure. Once the screen was cleaned, no more leaks.

The video was of great help. One area that gave me grief was placing the small part with points under the plastic mechanism in the door. I tried to push the points into the open slot. After watching the movie a few more times I was trying to put the part in backwards. A little more explanation at this point in the video would have been a tremendous help. Otherwise, thank you for the video.

Unplug dishwasher from electrical, water supply and drain hose. Pull dishwasher out from under cabinet. Unscrew water whirler from inside washer, then remove motor. Remove black boot from motor. Unscrew keeper from impellor housing. And you are there! Pull impellor off motor shaft. Replace seal first, then replace impellor. So easy this girl did it. But, this girl also does small engine repair!

Safety First: 1) I shut power off to dishwasher, 2) Shut water off to dishwasher, 3) Checked electrical with tic tracer to confirm power was off after removing bottom dishwasher panel, 4) I checked the orientation of old valve: connection plate, water inlet tubing, hose connection, and electrical connection. Then I removed the 2-screws that held the valve in place with a nut driver. Next I removed the compression clamp from the rubber hose with pliers and a screw driver. Then I removed the compression fitting and copper tubing from the old valve. Note: Kenmore used a compression fitting to connect the copper tubing to the original water valve. That said, I had to remove the old fitting and install a new one (using a pipe cutter on the copper tubing before installing a new compression fitting). I also bought a new valve elbow because the old one was not serviceable. With all three connections made up (the rubber tubing connected to the new valve along with the electrical connection, and the new elbow and compression fitting installed) I tested for leaks and reconnected the holding bracket to the side of the dishwasher frame. Before calling it good I vacuumed out the area under the dishwasher. Note: because the water inlet valve is located close to the floor, all the work had to be done while laying on the floor...awkward. This too, I had to purchase a new valve elbow and compression fitting so halfway through the project I had to make a run to the hardware store. Overall, replacing the water inlet valve on a 10 year old Kenmore dishwasher is an easy project...pretty straight forward but having to go to the hardware store stretched the installation time out to over an hour.

I read everyone else's fixes, which were very helpful but my solution of removing the plastic from the motor shaft was a lot easier than others. I simply used side cutters and made two cuts into that plastic piece and it Fell of. much easier than the person using several Dremmel blades to cut it off.. That was the most difficult phase until I grabbed my ole phone company side cuts and just cut it off in 15 seconds. Thanks for all the other tips. I love dealing with Parts Select, Fast and efficient. Jim W

Started down Parts Select list of possibilities. Replaced the door gasket (1/2 hour), still leaked. Replaced water deflectors (15 min), still leaked. Was looking at steam vent and read the repair submitted by "mary from Fountain Green UT". Removed and thoroughly cleaned the steam vent (1/2 hour). Stopped leaking and is working fine now. Repairs were very easy using Parts Select instructions.