RUD3000DQ1 Roper Dishwasher - Instructions

I went on line and found the partselect website and was able to identify the defective parts using the schematic drawings. I ordered the parts and in about an hour I had reassembled the dishwasher and had it running again much to the joy of my wife and children. (No more washing dishes by hand!). I also purchased the touch-up paint and tine tips and now the washer looks and runs like it did when I purchased it.

Remove old spring pin, spring, door
Waste of time effort and money didn't change a thing still won't dispense soap to wash dishes

put new seal in and it still leaked!hum

Opened the door by using a star screwdriver. Pulled the door inside from the outside. Located the broken spring, put in new one (be very carefull to see how the insides are put together..makes life ALOT easier), and carefully put back together.

Turned off power to dishwasher. Removed inner door panel. Cut wires as directed and installed new switches. Also installed new spring on soap door opener. Reassembled, ran and tested. Take your time, this repair is pretty simple.

I replaced the seal, still leaked. Once I noticed that it was only leaking from the left side, we did a Google search to find that the screen in the upper left of the door could be the issue, causing back pressure. Once the screen was cleaned, no more leaks.

Remove lower rack in dishwasher, remove dishwasher, lay dishwasher on it's back, remove and replace motor and pump.Install new impellar with new seal. reconnect water, electrical and drain hose. Easy Peasy

Safety First: 1) I shut power off to dishwasher, 2) Shut water off to dishwasher, 3) Checked electrical with tic tracer to confirm power was off after removing bottom dishwasher panel, 4) I checked the orientation of old valve: connection plate, water inlet tubing, hose connection, and electrical connection. Then I removed the 2-screws that held the valve in place with a nut driver. Next I removed the compression clamp from the rubber hose with pliers and a screw driver. Then I removed the compression fitting and copper tubing from the old valve. Note: Kenmore used a compression fitting to connect the copper tubing to the original water valve. That said, I had to remove the old fitting and install a new one (using a pipe cutter on the copper tubing before installing a new compression fitting). I also bought a new valve elbow because the old one was not serviceable. With all three connections made up (the rubber tubing connected to the new valve along with the electrical connection, and the new elbow and compression fitting installed) I tested for leaks and reconnected the holding bracket to the side of the dishwasher frame. Before calling it good I vacuumed out the area under the dishwasher. Note: because the water inlet valve is located close to the floor, all the work had to be done while laying on the floor...awkward. This too, I had to purchase a new valve elbow and compression fitting so halfway through the project I had to make a run to the hardware store. Overall, replacing the water inlet valve on a 10 year old Kenmore dishwasher is an easy project...pretty straight forward but having to go to the hardware store stretched the installation time out to over an hour.

I read everyone else's fixes, which were very helpful but my solution of removing the plastic from the motor shaft was a lot easier than others. I simply used side cutters and made two cuts into that plastic piece and it Fell of. much easier than the person using several Dremmel blades to cut it off.. That was the most difficult phase until I grabbed my ole phone company side cuts and just cut it off in 15 seconds. Thanks for all the other tips. I love dealing with Parts Select, Fast and efficient. Jim W

Unplug dishwasher from electrical, water supply and drain hose. Pull dishwasher out from under cabinet. Unscrew water whirler from inside washer, then remove motor. Remove black boot from motor. Unscrew keeper from impellor housing. And you are there! Pull impellor off motor shaft. Replace seal first, then replace impellor. So easy this girl did it. But, this girl also does small engine repair!

Replaced the heating element that I ordered from Part Select. The repair cost me less than $25.00 and took me less than 5 minutes. I saved $650.00 by not buying that new dishwasher that my wife wanted to replace it with. I'm sure she will find some way to spend the money I saved(lol). Thank you Part Select.

1. Turn off the electrical switch that powers the dishwasher. 2. Open the door of the dishwasher and find the two phillips head screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the kitchen counter. 3. Remove the screws. 4. Gently move the machine side-by-side a bit while pulling it out onto the kitchen tile (be careful, the water-supply hose, electric cord, and dishwasher drain hose may not be long enough to allow you to pull it out very far - don't break or kink the hoses). 5. Remove (pull off) the black plastic fastener located on the bottom/rear of each side of the dishwasher. 6. Remove the old surround. 7. Lay the new wrap in place and secure with the two plastic fasteners. 8. Push back into place, secure the two screws, check your hoses.

I just followed the video, and it now works perfectly! Thanks SOOO much! great site, great info.

The hardest part was locating the leak. After consulting the other repair suggestions, I concluded that the gasket was a little more worn on one side than the other so I ordered the gasket. The evening before the gasket arrived (quick delivery from partselect.com) I decided to shim out the old gasket with some old door insulation. It made the door harder to close but it didn't leak any more. When the gasket arrived I replaced the old with the new. It leaked more than ever. After reading more repair instructions, I decided to take apart the door vent and check it. It was packed solid with gunk. After a good cleaning, I put everything back together. No leaks! I tried every repair listed except the door vent. Guess steam is a good gunk conduit LOL. I supposed I didn't really need the new door gasket but I can tell the door has a tighter seal now. Here's a tip to watch for. If the door doesn't leak right away after the washer starts, take the door apart and look at the vent. It can look just fine from the outside and that's deceiving. Someone else mentioned the 'leak' timing that finally got my attention and lead to the 'fix.'

The video was of great help. One area that gave me grief was placing the small part with points under the plastic mechanism in the door. I tried to push the points into the open slot. After watching the movie a few more times I was trying to put the part in backwards. A little more explanation at this point in the video would have been a tremendous help. Otherwise, thank you for the video.