NDU2J-CAN Norge Dishwasher - Instructions

I first replaced the seal/grommet around the soap dispenser latch, which was leaking, but did not totally stop the leak. I ended up ordering the door gasket too. Both were very easy to replace. My wife wanted a new dishwasher, but let me take a crack at fixing the leak first. Woo Hoo - big $$$ saved.

The problem would rarely happen if the dishwasher was fully loaded vs. lightly loaded; which would produce a lot of water rapidly during the spray cycles. (or empty during the house inspection!). Removing and replacing the door gasket is super-easy.

popped the two end caps off of the runners (the hardest part of the installation was figuring out how to pop them without braking them). Turns out just using a flat screw driver to start opening the cap lock did the trick. Once the end caps were off it was just a matter of rolling the old one off and the new one on and then putting the end caps back on.

The new basket wasn't an exact match, it's lighter weight and doesn't have the exact same configuration as far as the rows of tines. This will do us fine until it's time to replace the unit.

Video on website made the repair easy

Kill power to unit. Lower door. Hold down door and remove inner plastic door cover torx screws, rotate up and use inner door cover to brace outer spring loaded door from closing. lift off metal strap that runs along top edge of door. Unsnap black plastic cover.Latch is under cover. Unplug wires with pliers (they just pull off) after noting where they go. Unscrew single hex head screw and remove latch assembly. inside latch will be reused with the new latch switch holder. Pry up plastic clip keepers and remove inside latch. Depending on age they might break, no big deal you will use the new holder anyway. orient and install switches into holder, install inner latch and install assembly back onto door. Install wires, cover, metal strip and inner door in reverse order. Very easy to do. Parts worked perfect.

Took off the lower front plastic piece and unscrewed the side panel to snap the new part in place then attached the spring to it.

With watching Video on line it was fairly simply, my son knew exactly what to do, it took him about 20 minutes from start to completion and when tested, dishwasher ran great. We have used it six times and have not had a problem. I would highly recommend this part if you are having the same problem. The video was very good.

Just slide the old upper dishrack forward to the end. The stops on either slide must be removed . Only difficulty was getting the plastic stops to open up. We used a thin metal knivre to wedge into the opening.

The time to hook up the spring was a minute or two. I simply attached the linkage to the door and then attached the spring to the linkage.The extra time in the repair was re-attaching the cover.

I removed the gasket from around the dishwasher. Cleans the grove of any dirt, mold or other debris. I started the gasket replacement at the top center of dishwasher by folding the gasket in half to find the center and inserting that center point into the grove just below the latch.i then inserted the rest of gasket with my thumb into the remaking grove first to the right corner then to the left. No told were needed leak was gone

From other comments on this site, I learned that 2 people fixed the problem with a new door gasket; 3 fixed the problem by replacing the dispenser latch. I tried the gasket and it helped some (obviously needed replacement anyway) but then learned that the rubber boot around the soap dispenser latch was torn into two pieces. Replaced it and good-to-go.

USED A STAR SCREWDRIVER TO REMOVE THE LOWER SCREEN THEN REMOVED THE SUPPORT NUT BY HAND REPLACED THE LOWER SPRAY ARM & SCREEN WORK BETTER THAN EVER.THE ONLY NEGATIVE WAS THE PART TOOK 10 DAYS TO ARRIVE .

I removed the inside panel. This exposed the rear of the control panel. I carefully replaced the defective switch. Only one was bad but of course i replaced both.

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.