NDU4J Norge Dishwasher - Instructions

I went to take the bottom front panel off and ended up dropping the screw down behind the baseboard and then found that I did not need to take the panel off. The broken end of the float was not obstructing and I was able to just drop the new float in place. I spent more time looking for a replacement screw than any thing else. Ran it and it works fine.

Remove the motor and impeller housing assembly from the unit by disconnecting the motor wiring plug, green ground wire, removing the drain and transfer hose, wash arm assembly and three screws for the filter assembly. A plastic locking ring secures the housing assembly into the unit and is removed by rotating aft about an eighth turn. The impeller is removed from the motor shaft by unscrewing the left hand threads on the fan that attaches to the end of the impeller. The impeller has longitudinal splines that engage the motor shaft, so it has to be removed by pulling straight off of the motor shaft. My impeller was stuck on the motor shaft, so I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and sliced through the impeller to loosen it. Installed a new motor shaft oring, and then slid the new integrated seal/impeller onto the motor shaft and secured with the fan (remember left hand threads). Reassembled unit and no leaks...

The dripping water was coming from bottom right side of the door, almost directly beneath the detergent dispenser. Looking closely at the drips, I could see that they were coming from saturated insulation that is between the inner and outer door layers. I took the inside piece of the door apart and sure enough I could see water had been getting through the door latch and running down the inside of the door. I could see that the grommet around the door latch was cracked and brittle, so I replaced it and was pretty sure that would resolve the problem. But when I put the door all back together and did a test run, I had a leak even bigger than the first, but this leak appeared to be through the door seal at the bottom right. I then ordered a new door seal, which took only 5 minutes to replace and resolved the leak. I think the old door seal was too worn out at that spot and just by removing and replacing the inside door layer, it must have not made a good seal at that point. But I recommend starting with the door latch and grommet first, since that is a $4 part, and then proceeding with the door seal, a $43 part, only if necessary.

Removed dishwasher door liner and removed soap dish door latch assembly. Removed latch from assembly and replaced with new latch. Had trouble replacing assembly in correct sequence. Had to go on line and look at sequence picture to replace assembly correctly. Installed new gasket and replaced liner in door. The new gasket and latch solved my leak problem.
Thank you PartSelect

removed lower dish basket. then removed 3 screws lifted element cover and removed center hold down nut lifted spray nozzle nad installed new parts. dishwasher is working like new.
thanks for asking.

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

Ordered 3 parts first ..all came within two biz days..forgot the toe panel, called it was here the next day! The people that assisted me were wonderful! My husband did the repair. the dishwasher looks like new!!!!! I will order from Part Select again and again...extremley pleased. Now if only we could cover the Refrigerator in Black it would look like a whole new kitchen!

Remove screws holding the inside of the door. Set lid aside. Pull out the old foam insulation. Clean the area. Replace with new foam insulation. Put door back together.

I pulled out the old gasket and put in the new one. You need to stretch it a bit as you guide it in the track.
It was very easy but did not solve the problem.
Apparently, Maytag dishwashers are known for a leaky soap dish which I figured out after the door gasket was replaced. The problem is usually with the soap dish latch. You need to take the inner door off, disassemble the soap diehs, out a new gasket and latch on, reassemble, and you should be all set.

I used a voltmeter to see if 120 volts was present at the right time in the cycle; it was, so the actuator was the likely culprit. I ordered one on a Monday afternoon about 2:30, and it appeared on my doorstep Tuesday, shortly after noon! It took less than 15 minutes to replace the actuator - removing the 7 Phillips-head screws, lifting the panel, popping out the upper actuator, removing the two wires, putting them on the new actuator, popping it in and putting the panel back on. Worked like a charm. Happy wife . . .

Pulled out the old gasket and pressed in the new one. No more leakage.

romoved 3 screws, removed spray arm support nut. pulled off spray arm support, replaced new spray arm support and spray arm support nut

Popped off the plactic screen filter (3 screws). Droped in the new Spary Arm and put back together.

You guys are AWESOME! I ordered the part on a Wednesday afternoon and received it Thursday morning. So all and all I didn't even have to wash any dishes by hand.

popped the two end caps off of the runners (the hardest part of the installation was figuring out how to pop them without braking them). Turns out just using a flat screw driver to start opening the cap lock did the trick. Once the end caps were off it was just a matter of rolling the old one off and the new one on and then putting the end caps back on.

The new basket wasn't an exact match, it's lighter weight and doesn't have the exact same configuration as far as the rows of tines. This will do us fine until it's time to replace the unit.

Remove the old rack and slip in the new one. Took 5 min to figure out how to remove the upper rack. Now have "new" dishwasher. Great service by PartSelect.