MDB8601AWB10 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Four screws were removed and new parts were installed. The only problem was that two types of rack adjusters exist. If your dishwasher does not have a lever, part number PS2100470, then the new rack adjuster either left or right side will not work without part numbers PS2100470(lever) and PS2100308(cover). Be sure to order parts for both sides since the original plastic wheel supports have been replaced with steel.

Jesse, from San Jose (above) describes the situation perfectly. Here's the unique thing I noticed: the replacement parts are exact replacements! They fit well, and do the job admirably. I've ordered parts from Sears for older appliances, and the replacement part sometimes isn't what was originally used. Bottom line, Parts Select is awesome.

first, i removed the inner door panel exposing the latch assembly. i then disconnected the wiring to switches noting their locations. removed and replaced with new latch assembly, connected all wiring back to their corresponding switches, assembled the inner door panel and checked to make sure the latch was working properly.

Removed the tabs that hold the middle rack in place and slid the rack out of the dishwasher. Replaced the left adjuster by removing 5 or 6 torx screws. Slid rack back into the dishwasher. Hardest part of this job was finding the part - Sears and other parts suppliers indicted the adjuster was no longer available...and suggested we buy a new rack at over $150. The $36 we spent on the adjuster and doing the job ourselves probably saved us a repair bill of over $250 had we called a repair firm.

Took a while to figure out what had to be done. Brackets have to go under the metal frame which involves dropping the compartment. That is done by removing the screws which are hidden under the door gasket. Once I knew what had to be done it was simple.

Removed inside cover.
removed part.
disconnected switches.
plugged wires onto new part.
placed part in.
put inside cover on and screwed down.
Note: be careful of the bottom of the inside cover.

In order to clean the screen I had to remove the impeller. Removal required using a wheel puller. I backed off on the impeller screw but left it attached so that the wheel puller could pry against it. I then tightened the puller enough to free the impeller. I was then able to unscrew and remove the screen for cleaning.

Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.

After receiving the latch assembly, which arrived rather quickly, I found the handle itself was not enclosed in the package. Therefore this repair was delayed and after several calls to the 1-800 number I was informed the company had discontinued the distrubution of the handle. They offered a full refund, however I'm still waiting for the return labels so as to ship the latch back.

Now on the brighter side, the company representative put me in touch with a local distributor that did carry the latch/handle assembly as one piece and for a lot less money.

For those who are attempting the repair, don't worry, It was very simple. Just remove hex screws, lift the inside panel, unplug the two connectors and insert the new assemply.

Must say my wife was very happy to have the dishwasher up and running again.

Good luck !

First, shut off the circuit that the dishwasher is on. Remove the 10 - 12 screws that secures the inside waterproof panel to the door. There are two electrical connections are either side of the handle (latch assembly) that need to be removed. No need to disconnect any other connections or reservoirs. The handle comes right out. Seat the new one in door front opening. Reconnect the electrical leads and reseat the interior panel. I would put in the 2 screws are either side of the handle first; then the 2 at the bottom on either side and then the remaining. This is a very easy DIY job.

Ensure to order part # PS1559543, which is the complete assembly although the diagram doesn't show this, and not PS2100626 which doesn't include the handle. The new assembly is a different style than the original therefore you should replace the complete assembly.

This was an easy fix. Remove the eleven torque screws on the door and separate the inner door panel enough to remove the old assembly. Remove the wire connections from the door switches, reconnect to the new assembly, and reinstall the assembly and inner door panel.

I bought 2 Maytag appliances, a microwave and a dishwasher - they are both crappy!

The top plastic spray arm kept falling off into the top shelf of the dishwasher, causing all of the glasses on that shelf to come out dirty.

The arm has a small bracket that can snap off and on the main water tube easily without tools.

Changing it was a snap!

UNSCREWED THE LOWER PART BY PLIERS AND HAND. COULDN'T UNDERSTAND WHY THE LOWER
PART WAS AVAILABLE BUT THE UPPER SPRAY ARM
WAS NO LONGER AVAILABLE WHEN THEY BOTH GO TOGETHER..

I followed the instructions here on PartSelect to dismantle and put the new impeller in to place. Could tell the difference just in sound alone once it was running.

Removed the 2 wheel stops and slide the tray out. Removed 5 screws and removed the part, installed the new part and reinstalled the 5 screws. Reinstalled the tray and installed the wheel stop. Done...