MDB8601AWB10 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

This is a very common problem with this model. However, in addition to this part, you also need the following part numbers (which are not listed for this model):
PS920544 - Lever Adjuster
PS893981 - Cover, Rack Adjuster

The updated RACK ADJUSTER ASSY part did not match up to the other parts in my dishwasher. But, after I found a diagram for another dishwasher model that showed the above two parts as well, I ordered them in hopes that they would work for mine. They worked like a charm, and the design of the new updated part is much better than the original part (which, if you take a look at epinions.com, breaks on just about every machine).

I hope this helps someone out ... I was close to ditching our 1.5 year old dishwasher and buying a new one!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turned off water and power to the unit. Removed kick plate from under the dishwasher to access the water contol valve. Placed an absorbant rag under the water valve and water line. Disconnected solenoid on water control valve from electrical connection with my fingers. Used a standard adjustable wrench to disconnect the water line from the water control valve. Then used a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the two bolts that hold the water control valve on to the mounting bracket. Pulled the water control valve slightly forward to disconnect the water feed line to the dishwasher. Used a blunt end plier to pinch the clamp open and slowly wiggle the feed line off of the water control valve. Then removed 90 degree elbow off of the water control valve and used pipe dope and connected the elbow onto the new water control valve. Replaced water control valve in reverse order and utilized new hose clamp to reconnect feed line to new water control valve. Saved door seal for future use, when seal goes bad.

I could not reach the heater element nuts from under the dishwasher so had to pull out the dishwasher. I removed the screws around the front of the dishwasher and pulled it about half way out before the water inlet pipe and the electrical wires stopped me. I shut off the water, unhooked the copper pipe, and unhooked the electrical wires (shut off circuit breaker first). Pulled the dishwaser out so I could remove the element nuts and wires to the element. Removed the old element and installed the new one - the old nuts would not fit. I went to a local appliance parts store and found that my element is no longer made. I had the correct replacement element but you need to order the nuts also. Luckily, the local store had a small brass nut that worked. Reattached the electrical wires to the element, pushed the dishwasher half way in, reattached the water inlet and electrical wires, pushed the dishwasher all the way in and scewed back into the cabinets. All is well now and the dishwasher is working much better.

took out screws around door frame and unplugged
the panel. then replaced with new panel.
replaced the push button panel with a new one was very easy.

First I placed a cutting board under the rack to hold it in place while I took the five screws out of the bracket holding the T shaped bracket in place. I then just switched out the old for the new and guided the bracket into the side mounting piece and placed the end cap back on. Double checked the tightness of the screws and it was done.

Ist Repaired a hole in a rubber hose under the sink. 2nd Removed the 10 foot drainage hose with a regular screw driver (1 clamp at each end of the hose).
3rd Removed the insulation and replaced with the new after disinfecting the entire top and sides of the dishwasher with bleach. This eliminated all bad odor etc. only had to remove 2 plastic brads, 1 on each side of the unit.

Done and no leaks.

The spring mechanism is on the side, so you have to pull the dishwasher out onto the floor. To do that, you have to remove the floor molding (preferably without breaking it) and remove the base coverings (painted metal plates on the bottom of the washer. Unscrew the side gasket plates on the side of the dishwasher (just inside of the door) where it attaches to the cabinet and the screws in the braces at the top (inside the door) where it attaches to the counter top. Now you will be able to slide the washer forward to look at the sides where the door springs are. Depending on the floor, you may have to raise the washer's front feet. They screw up. As you pull the washer forward be careful to not mess up the insulation which drapes over the top and sides. You only need to come out 1/3 of the way to see the sides where there is a plastic wheel at the forward bottom corner. As you move the door up and down you can see the hook where the cable goes and further up the side you can see several notches where the spring goes. Hook the cable and bring it around the wheel and attach it to the spring. To reinstall, just follow these directions backwards. Good luck.

The replacement wheels are metal, which is much better. However, you have to buy the entire adjuster assy.--so $32 for a $1.50 wheel, but what can you do? You need a star bit in order to remove the five screws on the plastic cover. Be sure to pay attention to how the adjuster lever is inserted, but it's not at all complex. A very quick and easy process.

Removed the rack from the dishwasher. Removed Torx head screws holding the stabilizer in place. Pulled the two sections apart. Cleaned out the junk and replaced the stabilizer bar. New one had wheels with steel axles, so this should last much longer than the plastic ones. Put the rack back into the dishwasher. Ready to go.

I wanted to get the dishwasher cleaning better and thought that maybe the accumulator needed to be replaced. I figured that I'd swap out all the spray arms as well, just for good measure.

I needed Torx screwdrivers (T15 and T20, I think - not 100% sure on that) and patience because there's really quite a lot of screws to get the accumulator out. Finally got to it and it didn't look damaged, but replaced it anyway.

The spray arms are easy - they just snap in except for the lowest one, that had a plastic nut. I ordered a replacement nut just in case I broke this one (you know how that goes) taking it off. Well, it took pliers, but it came off ok.

In the end, my dishwasher is happy and cleans much better now.

The original brackets that hold the water distribution manifold to the back and top of the tub came off the "X-shaped" plastic posts on the tub walls. That caused the upper wash arm to sag down into the travel of the upper dish rack and was broken off when the rack was pushed in.
I bought 2 new brackets and a new wash arm. The new brackets had a smaller aperature than the originals and fit tightly onto the plastic posts, holding the manifold firmly in its proper location. Replacement of the brackets and the new wash arm took less than ten minutes and required no tools!

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

remove shelf install ball bearings in new ball cage click ball cage into slides re-install shelf piece of cake make sure you have all the ball bearings when ordering the cage they dont come with it 4/cage