MDBH945AWS3 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Door gasket fit in like a champ! No special tools required - just scissors to trim off the excess ends. Unfortunately this didn't correct the leak. The leak was caused by a Home Inspector who ran the dishwasher without soap. The soap has a defoamer in it. If you run the dishwasher without soap the water mixes with the surfactant in the jet dry and causes foam which results in a door leak. The foam also causes the pump to cavitate which is not healthy for the pump.

Snapped out the old retainer, snapped in the new. Then snapped in the washer arm. Done. Works great.

remove old seal, put in new - my 10 yr old could do it. Note - there is a white mark on the back of the seal indicating the middle so you can line it up when installing the new seal - makes it easier.

Basically took out of box and put in dishwasher.

Took the dishwaher apart. Found out the float was damaged. Replaced the float and the float switch. Put back together

Replaced the door gasket, inner foam strip and the bottom seals on the door. Unfortunately I broke the plastic door latch handle in the process and had to purchase a complete latch assembly too.

Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.

First off i replaced the latch (broke) never order one without the handle. I did , broke the new one trying to add the handle to it..cost me another one with handle.. Now to replace the touch pad-Turn off all electric to unit..If you have an old 1/4 drive extension, cut off the end that the ratchet fits..Now you can use it in your power drill with a torks bit ..Remove all screws around door inter face..The latch will drop down but its ok..To the right is the black box, useing a small socket, remove 2 screws, tip box up to remove plugin. Now remove all screws holding touch pad, remove it. Put in new touch pad, 4 screws, black box turn up & plug in pad to box, mount box with 2 screws..Set latch in place & start 2 screws to hold latch, now rest of screws..tighten last...

Switch was not the same switch as what was in the unit, similar but switch was normally closed instead of open, so had to take the switch apart and change sides with the contacts! should be the same, but was not, so in the end worked fine after an adjustment!

1.Disconnected the electricty 2. pulled the dishwasher from under the cabinet 3. tilted the washer on it's face (water supply was long enough and did not need to disconnected.)4. unscrerwed the 2 plastic nuts that hold the heating eliment in place. 5. tilted the dishwasher back upright and removed the old heating element. 6.put the new part in place had a helper tilt the washer forward while i tightened up the two plastic nuts to hold the part in place.7 reattached the elecrtic conectors to the heating element. 8. pushed the dishwasher back in place. 9 hook the electricity back up. During step 4 i had to remove the electric connectors from the old heating element.

Unfortunately, my experience was unlike that of the other people who posted. While everything did go back together it was very difficult to get it all to press down tightly enough to tighten each set of screws. The project took about 2.5 hrs and I still don't think it is exactly right. I'm still going to have a professional out to finish the job. Also, the tool needed to complete the job was nothing fancy, but also not in everyone's home tool kit.

I remove the inner door panel, disconnected two quick release connectors, unscrewed the old part from the inner panel and installed the new one.

The new part arrived quickly and was the perfect match.

The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.

from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.

The repair was much simpler than I had anticipated. I just started removing screws, remembering what screws went where, and carefully removed the parts I needed to until I could get to and remove the filter unit. Installing the new unit was a snap, then it was just a matter of putting everything back together.