MDB8969SDE3 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

You need to pull the unit out to get access to the spring connected to the rear leg frame. Use the everything in the kit. The rollers are upgraded and will guid the cable better.

all 4 wheel units needed to be replaced, popped them off and installed need wheel units in roughly 10 minutes, no tools needed.

Removed old rack and and removed old rollers and installed old rollers on new rack as they work better than the new rollers sent with new rack

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

I was constantly seeing small bits of food blocking the spray holes in the upper and lower wash arms. After a bit of troubleshooting, thanks to the included schematic, the only possible thing left which could introduce particles was the under-unit disposal unit. The dishwasher had to be fully disconnected, removed, and tipped-over to access the pump and motor.

After removing the entire pump and motor assembly, it was obvious what the problem was - the filter screen (which is not accessible normally) was totally destroyed. The motor had ripped the mesh screen up, and sent shards of sharp metal throughout the unit. What a terrible design - a non-user-accessible filter which requires disassembly of the entire product to clean.

I replaced the entire pump and motor assembly which was pretty simple. Just use a very small amount of dish soap to lube the rubber o-ring up to make it slide into place easy. Reconnect all the cables in the same place you removed them from.

If you don't mind using some stainless hose clamps, you could maybe get away with replacing a lesser expensive subassembly - but for me it wasn't worth the hassle.

Following a utube video made it easy. Removed the outer cover of the door to expose latch. Two screws remove the latch, pay attention to how it was positioned and put the new one on and then replace the panel. But first turn off the electricity to the unit at the fuse box.

Removed old gasket, cleaned track thoroughly, then followed instructions from video on Part Select order form. Instructions very clear and precise. Getting the new gasket was a little tedious at the corners but take your time and work the gasket with your fingers as shown on the video.

repair went smooth for the grommet. suggest a small of vasoline to ease installation of grommet

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.

Searched internet found a YouTube video not quite the same model but close enough to get me going and the steps were the same

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

I turned off the power to dishwasher first. Removed bottom plate to get to leveling legs. Lowered the legs as to be able to pull and skid dishwasher out from under counter.
Once dishwasher is removed from under locate the 4 screws on right side that hold racks remove them.
I would recommend replacing both skids on both side while you have the dishwasher pulled out.
Very easy to replace new rack slid once old rack removed.
The rack come assembled with skid and plastic holders.
This repair is a 10 minute repair per side.
Thanks Bob Seese

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.