MDB8959AWB5 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

I am a 61 year old woman and it took me a total of 2 min. max. Popped it into place and pushed in button that holds it..Taa Daa...perfect!

Pulled front panel and replaced door switch. Extremely easy but did not fix the problem.

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

I opened yutube and noted the tips on how to fix specific problems with my dishwasher. That "steve" guy was very helpful. I tested the old bi-metal fuse with no flow and ordered a new replacement through partselect. The part arrived in one day and was fitted quickly. I used the teat meter to confirm that the fuse was ok before I installed it. The only problem that I had was identifying the part and number from a diagram which I did not have.

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!

Remove 2 screws on lower baseplate. Remove 2 screws that hold dishwasher inside cabinet( may be attached to counter top or side cabinets). Turn off water supply to dishwasher. Remove any connections such as water supply, electrical connection, or waste water line that prevent dishwasher from being pulled out about 3/4 of the way. With the dishwasher door closed, remove broken parts and replace with new parts. Pull on spring to make final connection of nylon cable. Reverse the above instructions for re-installing the machine.

Remove the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher under the counter top. Remove dust cover plates at the bottom of the machine. The machine will have to be pulled out, so turn off the water to the machine. Usually under the kitchen sink. Disconnect water supply and push it out of the way so the dishwasher can be pulled out. Pull machine out enough so you have access to the door cables and springs. The door will have to be in the closed(up) position to do the repair. Usually only one side is broken. Start with the broken side and copy the working side when installing new parts. Then repair the working side. To get the working side apart just pull on the spring and disconnect it from the cable. Do the reverse to reinstall.

After replacing broken door cables I had a small leak at the door corner. I replaced door seal with that not fixing the leak and found that the door hinges were bent a little from the cables being broke for awile. Installed new hinges and leak is fixed now. A little difficult but once unit was pulled out about 6 inches the hinges were not bad to replace

Removed old rack and and removed old rollers and installed old rollers on new rack as they work better than the new rollers sent with new rack

1. do not order or buy anything before examining the tension nut and washer. 2. Unplug the unit. 3. Open the switch box before trying to remove the float. Two types; easiest is pin based and lifts out easily. If the float catches, it likely has a headed bottom and needs an assist to lift past the stop flanges. 3. Using a standard ohmmeter, check for continuity. If it checks no need to replace. 4. Check float and assembly for abnormalities; cracks, lime deposits, etc. 5. Now decide what needs replacing. Did all my work with relative ease without pulling out the appliance. A couple sequences may need realigned.

replaced the valve

First of all I appreciate the instructions provided by this site when I selected the part I needed! The installation was so easy. I popped the end caps off of the top rack guides and removed the top rack. I reach in and popped the clips holding the top sprayer bar and gently pulled down on the sprayer bar enough to place the spinner button in the top of the sprayer bar. Then pressed the spinner on the bottom of the sprayer bar into the button I place in the top of the sprayer bar and reattached the sprayer bar to the clips. Put the top rack back on the guides and replaced the guide caps and it was finished. Easy fix thanks to this site great instructions!