MDB8949SAW1 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

After looking at what everyone else had done, I decide that I would take the dishwasher out of the wall space and set it on its side. This require me to turn off the power first. Then I pull the diswasher out from its space in the wall. I turned off the the water and then took off the water hose, then took of the return hose. There was water left in both, so there was a little water on the floor as a result of this. Then I finally pulled out the unit and laid it down on its side. The motor was very visible and was easy to access. The hardest part was finding the bolt to take it off. I pulled off the power connector to the motor and then took off the one bolt that was holding the motor on the washer. Then I twisted the motor, but it would not come off. I finally got a screw driver and put it in the small opening between the motor and the connection and it finally came off. This took all of about 30 minutes. Once I got the motor off, I notice that the aluminum grating inside was dirty and needed cleaning. So I cleaned this and put it back inside. The new motor came with every thing, so I put it in and twisted it. Then put back in the bolt, reconnected the power cable, put back on the water and reconnected the output cable. In order to make sure there were no leaks before I put it back in for good, I ran a short wash to check to see if everything was tight. There were no leaks, so I put everything back in the wall. It really did sound very nice now. This dishwasher unit came with noise padding, so I put that back as well. The dishwasher, now is very quite and I don't mind it running any time during the day. The hardest part about this is getting the motor off and find the bolt. It is down between motor and the unit and there was some aluminum between this and the dishwasher, so you need a long nutdriver to get it off.

I did not get to repair my dishwasher using the part supplied by Partselect.com. I pulled my dishwasher out and found that the connector had fallen of the capacitor during installation. Happy to say that I returned the part for a full refund minus the shipping. Have bought from them before, and will again

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Pulled off old seal. Pressed into groove the new door seal. No parts required.

Killed the power and shut off the water. Unhooked and unplugged power, hot water and drain connections to move washer to middle of floor for easy access to all sides. Taking out the the main pump/motor assembly (the "Assembly")required taking out the flat white hot water tube that feeds the upper and middle sprayers. So, I started by taking out the two trays. Then, took out the lower, middle and upper sprayers. Then, tipped the dishwasher onto its front and disconnected the hoses and several electrical connections from the Assembly. Also, unhooked the drain pump motor and impeller from the Assembly since these are not included with the new Assembly. Took out the three sliding retainers to release the Assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher. Took a little gentle coaxing to release the seal between the Assembly and the tub bottom. Took the Assembly apart and found that the problem was the shaft bearing (ball bearings) between the motor and the impeller had rusted and subsequently failed. Therefore, buying just a new motor would have not helped. Inserted the new Assembly into place from inside the tub. Because of the tight seal, the Assembly had to be carefully placed into the tub opening and the seal gently pushed into place by working all the way around in 1 inch intervals. Took about three trips around the seal of the Assembly to ensure a tight, even fit. Otherwise, working unevenly around the perimeter will bind the Assembly and you'll have to remove it and restart. Once in and seated evenly in its place, reconnected the hoses and electrical connections. Installed the drain pump motor and impeller onto the new Assembly. Tested the unit for proper operation and leaks. Found no problems. Then re-installed the water tube, sprayers and trays inside the machine. Helps to jot down steps taken to disassemble so you retrace steps to re-assemble.

I followed another story for the same repair. Worked great.

Repair was easy - The only reason that I am writing this is to brag on you guys for shipping the part as promised and on time. Had i next day which was most important.

Thanks

Pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, removed faulty seal, installed new seal. Easy to understand directions are on web site.

Used bowls in upright position in upper shelf determining no water to upper shelf after running in rinse cycle. Added a cup of Vinegar in rinse cycle. Performed bowl test in upper rack & still no water in bowls. Dismantled inside of unit by removing both spray arms & found lower seal deteriorated & upper seal in need of replacing. Replaced seals & redid bowl test & found no water getting to top rack still. Found utube vid showing removing garbage disposal portion of unit. Requires removing screen in bottom of dishwasher. One screw attaches garbage disposal cover. Found non food items & food by broken garbage disposal. Repaired disposal, removed debri & reinstalled all components. Redid bowl test in upper shelf & bowls were overflowing!!????Dishwasher works GREAT now & can hear garbage disposal operating along with massive water being sprayed!!!

Due to the way I installed the appliance originally it was not necessary to disconnect supply water nor the drain connections. When the cord broke the spring came out of the point of connection to the appliance. It some "finagelling" to reattach the spring.After some "select vocabulary" it hooked into the correct spot and the rest was history.

I took the valve off and actually hooked 110 volts to the vale and tried to blow through it and it would not let air pass through it. I replaced the the new valve in about 15 minutes and it works fine

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.