MDB8851AWW45 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Ist Repaired a hole in a rubber hose under the sink. 2nd Removed the 10 foot drainage hose with a regular screw driver (1 clamp at each end of the hose).
3rd Removed the insulation and replaced with the new after disinfecting the entire top and sides of the dishwasher with bleach. This eliminated all bad odor etc. only had to remove 2 plastic brads, 1 on each side of the unit.

Done and no leaks.

First I read all the reports for not cleaning properly already listed on this site. I had to replace the docking station with flappers. When I removed the station I lost the flappers down the water delivery tube just like Jon said I would in his repair post so I removed the water distribution assembly fished out the old flappers and snapped in the new.
But then I figured I might as well check out the accumulator while I was in the tub anyway - I had read that you need Torx screwdriver bit, which I had, undid the screws, pulled out the accumulator screen which was about 80% clogged, discovered I need a new chopper blade and my impeller is disintegrating, put it back together and lost ten minutes looking for the three screws I had incorrectly put in too soon, and now it is cleaning a packed full load like it was supposed to do.
**I love this site - I went to the virtual repairman and it listed every problem I had with this appliance in the order they happened (door latch broke years ago). - I think I am going to look up stuff that I own so I will know ahead what could go wrong with them.

And absolutely NO DUCT TAPE was used in this repair.

The spring mechanism is on the side, so you have to pull the dishwasher out onto the floor. To do that, you have to remove the floor molding (preferably without breaking it) and remove the base coverings (painted metal plates on the bottom of the washer. Unscrew the side gasket plates on the side of the dishwasher (just inside of the door) where it attaches to the cabinet and the screws in the braces at the top (inside the door) where it attaches to the counter top. Now you will be able to slide the washer forward to look at the sides where the door springs are. Depending on the floor, you may have to raise the washer's front feet. They screw up. As you pull the washer forward be careful to not mess up the insulation which drapes over the top and sides. You only need to come out 1/3 of the way to see the sides where there is a plastic wheel at the forward bottom corner. As you move the door up and down you can see the hook where the cable goes and further up the side you can see several notches where the spring goes. Hook the cable and bring it around the wheel and attach it to the spring. To reinstall, just follow these directions backwards. Good luck.

remove shelf install ball bearings in new ball cage click ball cage into slides re-install shelf piece of cake make sure you have all the ball bearings when ordering the cage they dont come with it 4/cage

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

Not being very computer literate, the most difficult part of the entire venture was navigating your web site. But I finally found the part I needed. I paid on line with a credit card, and received the part within a few days. I popped it in the dishwasher, and it took three days before my son noticed it.
He was surprised and I was proud to say " I ordered it on line."
All's well that end's well.
I would difinately use your service again.

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts

The repair was as easy as 1, 2, 3.. 1) Open box that the new dishrack was shipped in from PartSelect. 2) Take old and dry rotted dishrack out of my dishwasher. 3) Place new dishrack into my dishwasher.

Less than 5 minutes.

First shut circuit breaker to dishwasher and close water valve under the sink. Remove the screws that hold the dishwasher to the counter, then remove the bottom cover plates. I slid the diswasher out almost all the way...On the left side bottom I could see the old water inlet valve was attached by 2 hex screws and a clip with 3 wires..after removing the 2 screws and clip I was able to remove the water line (place something to catch a small amount of water) and remove the black rubber hose from the old intake valve by squeezing the clip.. Removed the brass nut from the old valve you'll need it. I installed the new water inlet valve by connecting the old brass nut
(replace with new thread seal tape) , replace the water line and black rubber hose...attach to frame with the 2 hex screws and replace clip with wires...I slid the dishwasher back under the counter, turned the water on and power back on...I ran the dishwasher before I secured it in place to check for leaks...Dry as a bone...I then secured it to the counter and replaced the bottom plates.. the dishwasher is working like new...everything comes out spotless...Sometimes repairs are not as hard as they look, just take your time.

Best part, i go this thing on my hands right of way..Great place, great price...Highly recommende

First I removed two bottom plates (two screws on each) Then I pulled dishwasher out about six inches. That's as far as it would go because I did not disconnect the water and drain hoses. That was enough to remove the broken cable and collect the disabled spring. I then reattached the new cable to the spring and reworked them into position. NOTE: There is a right and left cable and spring set-up. I used the "good" side as a guide. I then pushed the dishwasher back into place and replaced the two bottom plates.

I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker. Sitting in a chair in front of the opened dishwasher with the partially opened door resting on my knees, I removed the 10 screws lining the inside of the door (setting them in order on the cabinet above -- 2 are different length so this helps keep them in order.
I tilted the inner cover on the door up (which is what the screws had been holding). With the door not fully open because it was on my knees, I was able to position the cover so that I did not have to remove the connection to the soap dispenser.
The two middle screws removed earlier were the screws that held the latch in place, so the assembly was already loose at this point. I put a black mark on the assembly to mark the side that the black wires were attached. Then with the pliers removed the plugs that were connected to the switches on either side of the assembly. Then marked the replacement assembly with the black mark on the same side as the one removed. I attached the plugs to the the replacement assembly using the black mark as reminder for which side was which.
I lined up the latch on the door where it goes, lowered the lid (lifting the lower edge over the base a little), lined up and started the latch screws (middle 2), then started all of the other screws and then tightened them all. Closed the lid and tested the latch. It was closing correctly now. I turned on the electricity and tested to make sure all was now working properly.