MDB8601AWQ41 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I took out the racks and disassembled the bottom assembly until I got to the impeller. Just replaced the part and reassembled. I used only a star shaped driver on all tightened pieces. It was very easy to do and I did not even need any advice/help from the hubby! Saved a whole lot of time and money doing this small repair myself. Thanks for fast service. I ordered part online Thur. late afternoon, and it arrived Friday.

first, i removed the inner door panel exposing the latch assembly. i then disconnected the wiring to switches noting their locations. removed and replaced with new latch assembly, connected all wiring back to their corresponding switches, assembled the inner door panel and checked to make sure the latch was working properly.

First, shut off the circuit that the dishwasher is on. Remove the 10 - 12 screws that secures the inside waterproof panel to the door. There are two electrical connections are either side of the handle (latch assembly) that need to be removed. No need to disconnect any other connections or reservoirs. The handle comes right out. Seat the new one in door front opening. Reconnect the electrical leads and reseat the interior panel. I would put in the 2 screws are either side of the handle first; then the 2 at the bottom on either side and then the remaining. This is a very easy DIY job.

After receiving the latch assembly, which arrived rather quickly, I found the handle itself was not enclosed in the package. Therefore this repair was delayed and after several calls to the 1-800 number I was informed the company had discontinued the distrubution of the handle. They offered a full refund, however I'm still waiting for the return labels so as to ship the latch back.

Now on the brighter side, the company representative put me in touch with a local distributor that did carry the latch/handle assembly as one piece and for a lot less money.

For those who are attempting the repair, don't worry, It was very simple. Just remove hex screws, lift the inside panel, unplug the two connectors and insert the new assemply.

Must say my wife was very happy to have the dishwasher up and running again.

Good luck !

After only 2 years, the Amana dishwasher door began to stick severely. If finally stuck so bad that I had to break the handle to get the door open. The replacement latch and handle fit perfectly and it only took a few minutes to get the screws off of the inner door panel to access the broken latch.

I followed the instructions here on PartSelect to dismantle and put the new impeller in to place. Could tell the difference just in sound alone once it was running.

Turned off water at the shutoff valve. I did not turn off the power, but it is recommended you do so. I pulled the dishwasher out from under the cabinet and used a car jack to lift the front off of the ground. Disconnected the water supply and the rubber hose that fills the dishwasher tub. There are two 7mm screws that hold the water pump to the frame. If you do not have a 7mm socket, the easiest thing to use is an interchangeable screwdriver. When the screw bit is pulled out, the empty screwdriver is a 7mm. Used adjustable wrench to remove the brass water port for the supply line. Teflon tape to all connections and hooked everything back up. My supply line was old and was leaking, so I had to run out and get a new one, so that added about 30 minutes to what would have been maybe a 20 minute repair.

The repair went easy. Just unscrewed the inside door panel and latch assembly. Then put the new one in. The only bad thing was I purchased the latch assembly with out the handle and found out mine was cracked. I looked back on-line and couldn't find just the handle. Everybody sold it with the latch assembly. I thought I would save the 2 bucks buying the assembly without the handle. But in the end the door seals tight and no water leaks.

First I removed the screws from the inside of the door exposing the latch assembly. Removed the old part and installed the new assembly. Don't screw it on to the door untill the cover is on again.
First I ordered only the latch without the handle. Found after opening it up the handle was broken on the inside so had to order the assembly. It's a piece of cake to install. If you're having touble opening the door don't think because the handle looks ok from the outside it's not broken.. probably is. Partselect.com is the greatest company to deal with. I'd recommend them to anyone and have.
Sam

In order to clean the screen I had to remove the impeller. Removal required using a wheel puller. I backed off on the impeller screw but left it attached so that the wheel puller could pry against it. I then tightened the puller enough to free the impeller. I was then able to unscrew and remove the screen for cleaning.

Removed inside cover.
removed part.
disconnected switches.
plugged wires onto new part.
placed part in.
put inside cover on and screwed down.
Note: be careful of the bottom of the inside cover.

After disassembling accumulator assembly looking for reasons that washer not washing properly, I noticed accumulator filter had failed. The plastic (or whatever material it is) covering the holes was torn in a couple of different holes. Realizing that this was not the reason for the loss of pressure I investigated a little more and found that water arm going into the docking station was extremely worn with much play. Water pressure was compromised because of it. I replaced filter and docking station and now its like a new dishwasher again. Saved a dishwasher from the landfill!

This site has a great video on how to do this. Just follow that.

I pulled out the dishwasher enough to tip it back and put a block of wood underneath the front leveling foot.
This step gave me more room to work on the valve.
I removed the lower cover plates to expose the valve.
I disconnected the incoming water line and unplugged the electrical connection.
I then unscrewed the bracket to release the valve from the case and took off the rubber hose attached to it.
I installed the rubber hose on the new unit and installed the bracket back in place. I then wrapped some Teflon tape on the threads of the valve fitting and re-installed the water supply line. I re-installed the electrical connection.
I then turned on the water to check for leaks. Once I was certain there were no leaks, I re-installed the lower cover plates and took out the wood block and pushed the dishwasher back into place and re-installed the screws that held it in place.
I then ran a load of dishes to make sure everything was working properly.

The repair was actually easy. The difficulty was in correctly assigning blame to either the control panel (the old one still works) or the control board (the old one had indeed failed).

Not all of the the part suppliers are clear on how to determine the part series (10, 11, 18, or 19) from the DW serial number.

I have now been running a new Series 19 control board with a new Series 10 Control Panel for almost a week. with no issues.