MDB7851AWQ0 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

1 - Unscrew the back of the dishwasher with a hex-type driver. The latch assembly will be resting inside the outer door assembly. Make sure power is turned off to the washer - there are a couple of "hot" wires that will attach to the latch assembly.

2 - Unplug the wires from the old latch and plug into new latch assembly.

3 - Place the latch assembly back in place and re-attach the two door pieces together.

4 - Turn power back on at the breaker.

5 - Load dishwasher with the stuff that's been sitting in your sink.

6 - Gloat to spouse/significant other that you just saved $100 by fixing it yourself.

Just a quick note of thanks for shipping the replacement handle for my Maytag dishwasher.  Service was superquick and I was able to save big bucks (no service call).  I called on Saturday evening and the part was here on Tuesday.  The young lady who helped me was awesome and a Pens fan to boot.  I seldom send these types of emails but my experience was worth sharing.

Super easy fix, watched the installation video, did the repair in about 15 min. Helpful site and will gladly return in the future if needed

removed inside door panel--then the wire leads--replaced broken part--reattached wire leads --reattached inside door panel--done----------------suggestion--it would be a good idea to include with the new part the screwdriver bit to fit the screws on the door panel ---many people would not have that size Good service from this site

Removed all the screws from the door panel. Removed door handle. Replaced it with new handle. Attached switches but did not turn the power off. Replaced the panel. Everything fitted well and works well.

Turned of power at the circuit breaker first. Removed the hex nuts from the inside of the door. Latch is loose know and just need to unplug the power cords from both sides. Install new latch by reattaching the two power cords to it and reassemble. Very easy and very fast shipping had part the next day with regular shipping.

1. Remove both upper and lower dish trays
2. Remove the “Spinner /Sprayer” (small nut on the top)
3. Unclip the “Tower” from the top and rear clip
4. Remove the “Tower” from the unit
5. Remove the “Filter Guard” on the bottom by removing 3 torx screws
6. Remove the “Discharge Housing” & “Impeller” (1 – 15 torx screw)
7. Remove and replace the “Accumulator Filter” (8 – 20 torx screws)
8. Assemble in reverse order

Took off broken handle and replaced it with the new one.

Removed the front door cover (held by several screws) Replaced the broken latch with the replacement by reconnecting the switches (one at a time & noting their orientation). Rescrewed the cover. Works like a charm!

Remove all the screws around the inside panel and separated by size and location. There are two larger screws for the bottom two holes. Marked the electrical connectors for location on the latch assembly. Also marked the top of the two microswitchs for easier reattachment. Removed the microswitchs with the needle-nose pliers and attached to the new assembley. Reattached electrical connectors and the plastic panel.

First, unplug your dishwasher from under the sink. Remove all eleven screws from the inside door panel. Lift door panel up. Old latch should lift right up. use a pair of pliars to grab and squeeze the base of the old metal connectors to pull out. Do not pull on the wires themselves. Plug in the new connectors from the new latch assy, fit into place, replace the inside door panel/screws.

Not bad at all. Took inside door panel off. Removed broken part. A little tricky to remove/replace the electric nodes. Decided to use the old ones rather than using the new ones that came with the part. Just easier than removing wires. Put door back together with new handle in place. Good to go...

1. remove inside door panel
2. verified the part needed using partselect web site (entire latch assembly).
3. removed connecting wire sockets and replaced part and door (simple process).

Basket Replacement very simple just remove old and set new basket in place

I assumed the broken door latch was causing the problem and not allowing the switches to make contact. Replacing the latch assembly was easy, but did not fix the problem, which must now be either the printed circuit board or the control panel. Either one is too expensive to justify spending on a machine that is several years old. In retrospect, an additional step in troubleshooting would have kept me from wasting time and money on the new door latch. I suggest that if you suspect the door latch is the problem, remove the screws holding the inside door panel, lift the switch assembly out of the door and insert it into the latch. See if you are getting 120 volts to the printed circuit board. If you are, but there is still no response from the control panel, the problem is not the door latch (even if it is broken, which they frequently are). Good luck figuring out if it is the printed circuit board or the control panel. At this point I decided to replace the machine with a basic Frigidaire model that used the old-fashioned timer switch. The last time I owned a machine like it, it lasted over 20 years!

Ordered part. (Part was larger than the original . That is it dis not fir int supports tha same as rhe original. Hut i modifird the support by assin copper wire to fanten the heater to the supports.) The instalation was no pronlem with a little engineering. Works like a charm, Wife Happy Most important result.
Elmer