MDC4809PAB2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

Replaced the dish rack.

Removed the retaining clips on the front of the rail and removed the old rack.

Removed the spray arm assembly from the old rack.

Assembled the new rack, with the supplied parts from the kit. Using the old rack to know where some parts needed to be placed.

Put the spray arm assembly on the new rack.

Inserted the new rack into the rails

Replaced retaining clips.

I ordered the part and it fit perfectly!! About five minutes to screw it onto my faucet and problem solved!!!

Primarily, I read the instructions on line and watched the great videos explaining the repair. While the DW was out, I decided to change out the Drain Pump and the Chopper Assembly, even though only the Circulation Pump and Motor was my problem. These three items are the primary mechanical wear components and it made sense to me to replace these items. Perhaps I'll get another 10 years out of the DW. Two notes about the repairs. If you replace the chopper it isn't clear in the video where exactly it fits into the housing as the video mechanic did a great job of blocking the view of this part of the procedure. It took me awhile to figure out the chopper screen didn't go in the narrow trough, but just outside of that trough. Also, to lubricate the gaskets when putting the motor and the drain pump back in, I use a light coating of petroleum jelly. It is a good lubricant to facilitate the insertion of the both pumps. The pumps slid in easily and there were no leaks when I test ran the DW outside of the cabinetry. If you have a modicum of mechanical ability this job is a very simple, straight forward process. Good Luck!

Put thread tape on threads. Screwed water hose to part. Pushed hose onto part. Pushed electric clip to part. Screwed part onto washer. Done

Started as dishes not getting clean and I observed that the top arm was not spinning and there was very low water pressure coming out of the jets. After making sure the water level was up to the bottom of the heating element and making sure the jets were not clogged I checked the filter and chopper. It was a little tough to get the cover off of the chopper but once I did I could see that the chopper scraper was broken off and the shaft was broken. The screen was all clogged up with stuff. Ordered a new assembly and put it in making sure to compress the spring and make sure the gears lined up. Now it is running great.
I think the Kitchenaid is the same as the Whirlpools.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

Turned off water and disconnected line, then disconnected drain, turned off power and slid dishwasher out and turned turned upside down and removed hold down bolt ( it is a 3/8 head bolt) removed wire from motor and twisted motor assembly approximately 1/4 turn counter clock wise and removed old motor and seal assembly reinstalled new motor with new seal and rewired. Turned washer back upright and removed filter assembly and lower jet arm, removed cover for food disposal and reinstalled disposal blade back on pump drive reinstalled cover and filter assembly and jet arm. Slid unit back in place and anchored down to cabinet and turned water and power back on ran washer through a short cycle to clean any soap build up that was left inside and that was it, it all works just like new.

I had to watch a You Tube Video and the Repair was basically snapping these parts on the rack and glide. No tools needed!

Removed old gasket. Cleaned the area and let dry. Aligned gasket, pressed into the groove. Corners are tricky, stretch and press to get a tight seal. Follow around appliance. Inital try, small leak. Adjusted seal second use no leak. 10/10 would recommend this part. Super easy self install.

removed screws holding dishwasher to counter top,raised leveling pads,pulled dishwasher out, unplugged wiring,removed hold down nuts from inside dishwasher and installed new heater element, this was all easy the hard part was finding the code to reset the dishwasher there was no paperwork inside the dishwasher although there was an empty plastic holder.The code that worked for my model was with the door open to push the normal wash button then the high temp button three times as fast as you can within four seconds then close the door. It worked and reset the dishwasher which ran a short cycle then shut down as normal and is now working fine.After doing this select the beverage of your choice and relax. Hope this helps someone.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

I had a repair guide for my dishwasher which helped. First I removed the water distribution system inside the dishwasher and then removed the door panel. Next I removed the front bottom access panel. I placed a pan under the pump and hoses to catch water when I removed the outlet hose. Very important here! One must remove the pressure switch from the outlet port or else you can't get the pump clear of the washer tub. Next I removed the drain pump by releasing the catch and turning the pump counter clockwise. Now for one of the hard steps. I had to remove three pins which hold the pump assy to the wash tub. Two of them are out of sight so you have to weave you hand past all the hardware and "feel" for the back two. At this point the pump assy just lifts out. Remove the motor /pump by removing one bolt and turning it counter clockwise and withdrawing. I put the new one in. Don't forget to put the pump screen in as I missed this and had to redo the job. Reverse all the previous steps being careful to keep the motor guard out of the pump seal area. Use lots of silicon seal grease and check for leaks on first power up. It took me a couple of adjustments to get a leak-free seal.

I cleaned the chopper and screen a few times and it continued to get blocked after a couple of cycles. Replaced the chopper assembly and now it works find.