MDC4650AWW1 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

I ordered the part and it fit perfectly!! About five minutes to screw it onto my faucet and problem solved!!!

Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

Looks like Maytag knew this was a problem. My chopper sleeve (plastic) was stripped and causing the impeller to not spin. The replacement part was all metal and was very easy to replace the old one just by removing screws. The replacement looks to be very sturdy and should last a lot longer than the original. Thanks.

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

We were happy to find the basket we needed listed on your website, even after we could not find it on the Maytag site. It was perfect. I can't believe we lasted almost 2 years with the broken basket we had.

I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

The rear right caster (wheel) under our fairly new portable dishwasher broke. Upon looking up the part, I discovered that it did not bolt into place, meaning that the exterior skin of the dishwasher did not have to be removed and that more than likely I could fix it myself.

The replacement wheels from Partselect were nicer quality than what the original was and showed up just two days after they were ordered.

However, getting what remained of the broken caster out was frustrating. I am not unhandy around the house, having put in two new bathrooms and a staircase.

But after yanking and prying on the broken caster for 20 minutes (slamming my fingers into the floor every time the pliers slipped), I could see where most people would give up and call a repairman. Finally, with help from small pry bar, the broken caster popped loose. Thankfully, putting the new in was as simple as sliding it into place.

Unfortunately, after all that work, we discovered the new caster was slightly taller than the old, leaving the dishwasher with a distinct wobble that my wife said was unacceptable. She, of course, had not been repeatedly introducing her hand to the floor.

I had ordered two replacement casters, thinking that another of the originals might break. But getting the second one out proved just as difficult as the first, even with the help of the pry bar.

After much cussing and kissing of finger booboos, our Maytag dishwasher is as good as the day we brought it home.

I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

removed screws from inside plate of dishwasher door. The assembly was hanging free (not clipped to the door). the old handle was easily removed, and the new one was clipped onto the assembly and put back into place. The screws were then replaced.

We had been noticing that the door was becoming increasingly more difficult to open. Extra force was needed. (that's probably why the handle broke in the first place). After the repair, the door opens much more easily.

This was probably the easiest repair we had ever had to do. Not only does the door operate much more smoothly, but we saved the cost of a service call.

I could not reach the heater element nuts from under the dishwasher so had to pull out the dishwasher. I removed the screws around the front of the dishwasher and pulled it about half way out before the water inlet pipe and the electrical wires stopped me. I shut off the water, unhooked the copper pipe, and unhooked the electrical wires (shut off circuit breaker first). Pulled the dishwaser out so I could remove the element nuts and wires to the element. Removed the old element and installed the new one - the old nuts would not fit. I went to a local appliance parts store and found that my element is no longer made. I had the correct replacement element but you need to order the nuts also. Luckily, the local store had a small brass nut that worked. Reattached the electrical wires to the element, pushed the dishwasher half way in, reattached the water inlet and electrical wires, pushed the dishwasher all the way in and scewed back into the cabinets. All is well now and the dishwasher is working much better.