MDBTT60AWW2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

first i removed eight torx (t-20) size screws...from the inner door . Then the wired harness surrounding the latch handle...( just a warning..im very very handy..esp with electric and got a little too cocky....pls make sure you turn off the power to the dishwasher...and avoid being zapped as i did ok?) the replacement part snapped in perfectly and was actually better quality than the maytag original...all it took then was to put the eight screws back and the washer was up and running in about 1o mins..

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

Once I got the door open, I removed the door cover screws with a Torx driver, where I found the broken handle and the Latch Assembly. One of the plastic handle pivot points had broken clean off. In my Brilliance, I went online to PartSelect, found that the part that I needed had been discontinued (from Maytag) and picked one that looked right. It ended up being the assembly without the handle, the part I needed. Save yourself some time and call the 800 number to make sure you get what you need. They were very helpfull in returning the wrong part to get the right one. Once I had the part, the repair was very straightforward. I just had to open the door up again, swap in the new Latch Assembly with the steel reinforced pivot point handle, and put the screws back in the door. The latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws. Watch the cut off switches on the assembly, the power is hot until you power off the circut at the electric panel.

Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

We were happy to find the basket we needed listed on your website, even after we could not find it on the Maytag site. It was perfect. I can't believe we lasted almost 2 years with the broken basket we had.

Being a fairly technical female, I decided after Internet research to replace this part by myself. It could not have been easier - even after reading several Internet horror stories. I believe the major difference being I replaced the entire assembly, not simply the latch.

You need a hex-head allen wrench to remove the inside cover of the dishwasher door, and some sort of pliers to remove the old unit. I used vice grips since I am a wimpy girl - they worked nicely (this took the longest time).

Step by Step:

Turn off the power to your dishwasher.

Remove the door screws and carefully lift it to access the door latch assembly.

Remove the old door latch by unplugging the black and white electrical mechanism. Pay close attention to which side the black and white connections are removed from for reconnection reasons. This is where I had to use vice grips. It took a bit to "unplug" the old latch assembly.

Once the old latch assembly is removed, position the new latch assembly and reconnect the electrical source.

Carefully reposition the door and replace the screws.

Turn on the power.

Run a short cycle (I used rinse) to make sure that the unit was replaced correctly.

Can it be any easier than that??

The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

Turned off water and power to the unit. Removed kick plate from under the dishwasher to access the water contol valve. Placed an absorbant rag under the water valve and water line. Disconnected solenoid on water control valve from electrical connection with my fingers. Used a standard adjustable wrench to disconnect the water line from the water control valve. Then used a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the two bolts that hold the water control valve on to the mounting bracket. Pulled the water control valve slightly forward to disconnect the water feed line to the dishwasher. Used a blunt end plier to pinch the clamp open and slowly wiggle the feed line off of the water control valve. Then removed 90 degree elbow off of the water control valve and used pipe dope and connected the elbow onto the new water control valve. Replaced water control valve in reverse order and utilized new hose clamp to reconnect feed line to new water control valve. Saved door seal for future use, when seal goes bad.

I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

1st: Unscrewed the inside of the door (actually hex screwdriver needed).
2nd: Removed broken part (one side of handle latch (which is plastic) was broken.
3rd. Had to disconnect two electrodes that were attached to the part that held the handle (there are two small prongs that you need to push back to remove these)
4th. In order to place the handle on the groove, you need to pull apart the bottom of the housing piece (it looks like it would be a hinge, but you just pull it apart)
NOTE: Make sure you have another person hold the top portion when you pull this apart because it has a spring and will come completly apart. This happened to us and it was a pain to get it back together.
5th: place the smaller "clamps" plastic pieces in the grove and then it should slide down into the groove, which will also seat the outer "plastic clamps" into the grooves.
NOTE: It seems like the repair part was built to reinforce this part of the handle, since this was the part that broke before. It is now reinforced with a little metal rod on each side.
6th: After all that, you need to place the two electrodes back on the piece.
7th: Hold it in place and put the inside of the door back on (start a screw on one side and then go to the opposite side. This will help to align the screw holes).
8th: After I put it all back together, I turned it on to make sure it worked ok.

1st, shut off the breaker for the dishwasher.
2nd, opened the door and removed all of the torx screws holding inner door to outer door.
3rd, placed inner door up and held it out of the way (closed inner door through/around latch tab and folded up a piece of paper, threaded it through latch tab hole and placed a small piece of masking tape around the paper to hold door out of the way - this made the entire job easier, because you do not need to hold the door out of the way anymore).
4th, removed broken latch/handle assembly (carefully - it is always a good idea to collect/save broken pieces to piece together the "puzzle" in case you need to improvise. Removing the metal clip attachments is tough, but much easier now that the inner door is secured out of the way. They cannot simply be pulled straight out. You should use a gentle back and forth wiggle motion in a T-shape. Meaning, wiggle back and forth 1-way, and then the other way (perpendicular to the first way) - this should get them separated. Be patient with this procedure - it will work fine and you won't get frustrated.
5th, look at the situation to determine exactly what went wrong/broke specifically (I was extra screwed, because 1/2 of each of the "U" shaped tabs that hold each side of latch assembly in place were broken - as well as the tabs on the latch assembly. These U-shaped tabs were/are actually part of the plastic outer door. Specifically, they are on the inner side of the plastic control panel display. I could have replaced this part too, but I was trying to do as inexpensive a repair as possible.
6th, So - I found 2 nut/bolts in my toolbox (probably 1/8" in diameter - 3/4" in length - I used flat head. Be careful in your selection of bolt length - the least amount sticking out the front of the dishwasher - the better). I drilled 2 holes - in the exact location where these inner door tabs broke off - and entirely through to the outside of the outer door - yes, all the way through. We are talking about drilling through less than 1/4" of plastic - simple. I made sure that I would not be drilling through any lighting display or really important pieces. The holes ended up being situated in plain plastic locations - not interfering with any functions. Be careful in your selection of drill bit size - you want the bolt to fit through the hole obviously, but you don't want the bolt to have too much wiggle room - because it will be functioning as your new tab - that should have as much structural integrity. So, I recommend drilling a hole that is just big enough that you have to use a screwdriver to thread the bolt into the hole.
7th - I connected the clips into the new latch assembly - somewhat easier than separating the old one.
8th - I placed the new latch/handle assembly into its proper location (resting on the 1/2 mounting tabs that remained on the inner door).
9th - I then used a small flat screwdriver to thread the 2 screws in place (yes, screw head on the inside of the door - to function as a tab - the edge of the screw head will hold down on the latch tab ends). I had to tilt the latch assembly forward, to allow just enough clearance to get my small, thin flat head screwdriver in there (on a slight angle, but that's ok). Thread it through until it gently snugs down onto the latch tab.
***You can do better than I did if you want to go the extra mile*** Find a small, thin piece of sheet metal or plastic. Drill a hole just big enough for the bolt threads to slide through. This sheet should be cut to the following specs: a rectangular shape just big enough to span across the tab you made with the bolt - onto the inner door tab that it still not broken (the drilled hole to fit the bolt threads through on one end). It is added structural integrity to even better hold the new latch assembly in place. Think of it as a bridge that spans the tops of the U-tabs.
10th - After screwing the bolts through until just enough to snug down on the latch assem

This repair was very easy. First, I opened the dishwasher, removed the screws (they are torx) and removed the old handle assembly. I removed the inner liner from the door, and to do that I had to pull out the electrical wires. I turned off the power, always a good idea. I should have marked the polarity on the plugs before removing them, since you can put them back on wrong (and I did).

I also used caulk to hold the assembly on the bottom, since the cheap plastic molded forks holding the assembly on had broken. Most of the holding force comes from screws at the top. The caulk provides just a little adhesion, and will be easy to remove if the handle should need to be removed again--which I consider unlikely.

This was a very easy repair. Before I did anything, I flipped the breaker for the dishwasher and tried to turn the dishwasher on to make sure it had no power going to it. Once I was certain the power was off I removed the hex screws (there are 11) on the inside of the door panel using the hex screwdriver. Lifting and holding the inside panel up, I then used the pliers to pry the old latch assembly out of its metal prongs. Then I replaced the old latch assembly with the new one, pushing the metal prongs (by hand) into the slits of the new latch assembly. Last, I lined everything up and screwed the door panel back in place. I flipped the breaker back on and activated my child lock to make sure I had power. The handle worked perfectly. Quick and easy fix!
I ordered the part with 3-5 day delivery and actually received it in 2 days! I'm extremely pleased with my partselect.com experience and highly recommend using them for all your appliance parts needs!

I could not reach the heater element nuts from under the dishwasher so had to pull out the dishwasher. I removed the screws around the front of the dishwasher and pulled it about half way out before the water inlet pipe and the electrical wires stopped me. I shut off the water, unhooked the copper pipe, and unhooked the electrical wires (shut off circuit breaker first). Pulled the dishwaser out so I could remove the element nuts and wires to the element. Removed the old element and installed the new one - the old nuts would not fit. I went to a local appliance parts store and found that my element is no longer made. I had the correct replacement element but you need to order the nuts also. Luckily, the local store had a small brass nut that worked. Reattached the electrical wires to the element, pushed the dishwasher half way in, reattached the water inlet and electrical wires, pushed the dishwasher all the way in and scewed back into the cabinets. All is well now and the dishwasher is working much better.

Ist Repaired a hole in a rubber hose under the sink. 2nd Removed the 10 foot drainage hose with a regular screw driver (1 clamp at each end of the hose).
3rd Removed the insulation and replaced with the new after disinfecting the entire top and sides of the dishwasher with bleach. This eliminated all bad odor etc. only had to remove 2 plastic brads, 1 on each side of the unit.

Done and no leaks.