MDBTT60AWB3 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The spring mechanism is on the side, so you have to pull the dishwasher out onto the floor. To do that, you have to remove the floor molding (preferably without breaking it) and remove the base coverings (painted metal plates on the bottom of the washer. Unscrew the side gasket plates on the side of the dishwasher (just inside of the door) where it attaches to the cabinet and the screws in the braces at the top (inside the door) where it attaches to the counter top. Now you will be able to slide the washer forward to look at the sides where the door springs are. Depending on the floor, you may have to raise the washer's front feet. They screw up. As you pull the washer forward be careful to not mess up the insulation which drapes over the top and sides. You only need to come out 1/3 of the way to see the sides where there is a plastic wheel at the forward bottom corner. As you move the door up and down you can see the hook where the cable goes and further up the side you can see several notches where the spring goes. Hook the cable and bring it around the wheel and attach it to the spring. To reinstall, just follow these directions backwards. Good luck.

Not being very computer literate, the most difficult part of the entire venture was navigating your web site. But I finally found the part I needed. I paid on line with a credit card, and received the part within a few days. I popped it in the dishwasher, and it took three days before my son noticed it.
He was surprised and I was proud to say " I ordered it on line."
All's well that end's well.
I would difinately use your service again.

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

Used torx bit to remove screws on door and removed the back of door. Removed wiring from switches (2) on broken latch and removed latch. Plugged in switches on new latch and placed latch in position. Screwed back of door into place and that was it! Very simple task and new latch looks and feels much more sturdy than old one.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

Turn-off the dishwasher power at the circuit breaker. Open the dishwasher door flat. Remove the 11 screws around the perimeter of the door using a t-20 torx bit (available at any hardware store). The latch assembly is held on by the top middle two door screws. Pull latch assembly out from top of door. Remove the black and white cable assembly connectors from the latch assembly making sure to note which side each color is on. If you have trouble sliding the connector off, use a flat screwdriver carefully to pry it, but do not pull on the wires. Install cable connectors onto new latch assembly making making sure the black and white cables are on the correct sides. Position the door at a 45 degree angle and place the latch assembly into position while putting the white inner door over it. Reinstall the 11 torx screws around the side of the door being sure the screws are snug, but not overtightened. Test the operation of your dishwasher. The new latch assembly seems to be built better than the factory original.

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts

I had to replace the touch pad. Called a service guy. He wanted $350 to fix it. Told him to take a hike. Ordered the front touch pad with ribbon cable. Had to remove about a dozen screws around the door, then 3 screws on the control panel inside. Connector for the ribbon cable was pulled back and the ribbon came right out. 4 more screws held the touch panel to the door. Removed those with drill driver. Put new part in and worked fine.

1. Fully opened door of dishwasher.
2. With star driver, removed 11 screws from the insde edge of door.
3. Outside front panel of door then is separated from inside panel slightly to again access to, latch assembly.
4. Verified that replacement part matched existing part.
5. Lifted out damaged latch assembly and disconnected the two electrical leads by gently pulling on the insulated connectors.
6. Connected the electrical leads to the coresponding connections on the new part and replaced in the reverse order of above.
7. Total time for repair was 15 minutes.

The repair was as easy as 1, 2, 3.. 1) Open box that the new dishrack was shipped in from PartSelect. 2) Take old and dry rotted dishrack out of my dishwasher. 3) Place new dishrack into my dishwasher.

Less than 5 minutes.