MDB7609AWS1 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I followed the YouTube video exactly and it went very well

FIRST I TURNED OFF THE POWER GOING TO THE MACHINE!!!! Then I removed the top rack by removing the (2) end caps on the front of the rack glides first then lifting the rack upwards and out. Next I removed the bottom rack which slid out easily. I then removed the lower spray arm that was held in place by the plastic turn-screw portion of the lower spray arm support/hub. I turned the screw a few times and the spray arm was released. I then released the feed tube assembly that was held in place by (2) clips; one clip was on the back panel of the tub (above the probe area) and the other clip was on the top panel of the tub (before the upper arm spray). Then I turned the entire tube feed assembly a quarter turn to the right so that it was possible to separate/unsnap it from the feed cap on the bottom. After the feed tube was moved away I was able to access all (4) screws that holds the accumulator in place. I used an allen wrench to remove those. After the accumulator was removed I saw two screws that was holding the 2-part protective cover of the chopper assembly. The small cover came out easily, the round cover took a little jiggling and fussing until I figured out how to pop it out. The chopper was revealed when the cover came off and I found it to be very warn and a bit bent. I pulled it out by pulling it upwards and forward towards me. At this time I also removed the valve check. To my surprise it didn't look like the one that I bougth to replace it. It was missing the round disk portion. I fished around thinking it may have somehow fallen off, but I didn't find anything. I put the new one in, disk-side down. I then put the chopper assembly in place and put everything back together again. I'm not 100% sure that it is completely back to normal. It seems to leave significantly less debris than before, but I noticed that there is more water on the bottom of the basin now. So it may not have been my only problem. If anyone has experienced the same thing I would really like to know

When the top rack stopped cleaning, I tracked down the problem to the food shredder/chopping blade, and then to the impeller that drives the blade. The knob on the impeller had sheared/broken off. That meant removing the motor, and replacing the impeller. Four hours, a band-aid, and a trip to Home Depot later, here are my suggestions

1. Look for videos – this site is awesome, but they don’t have a video on this particular repair. I found 4 that got me close to knowing what I was doing.
2. Do all the “remove internal stuff” - you had to anyway to find the issue with the shredder/cutting blade
3. Take pictures as you move along, you’ll need them when you have to remember the placement of the water line, drainage hose, wired connections etc.
4. You need a 1/4 inch socket set. A 3/8 drive will NOT work (it won’t fit between the shroud and the base). Don’t start working on the repair, unless you have a 1/4 in socket with about a 6" extension
5. Someone at Kitchenaid should be shot for having the waterline connection facing the back of the unit. Use a short adjustable wrench
6. The order comes with a washer, but when you take the impeller off this model, you’ll see you don’t need it.
7. Placement is everything – there was zero clearance between the bottom of the unit and the floor. Placement of the water line, drain hose, and power line was critical – had to re-position the unit about 7 times to get it to “play nice”.
8. Hindsight – only needed to remove the wire harness for the motor (take pictures)
9. Hindsight – gloves are a great idea – sheet metal is unforgiving

You need to pull the unit out to get access to the spring connected to the rear leg frame. Use the everything in the kit. The rollers are upgraded and will guid the cable better.

Just followed the YouTube video they sent with the receipt.

Grabbed old seal and removed it.(notice how seal was situated in slot)

Pushed new seal in slot that held old seal. close door.

If dishwasher still leaks you put the seal in backward (I did!)remove seal reverse it and reinsert it.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

Since I had manual from initial installation I knew code meant heater was malfunctioning. Went to Sears, Lowes..no parts to repair. Instructed to go to appliance repair shop, closed of course...ordered online instead here and received in 2 days. Repair took 20 minutes. Super easy! Do not attempt to use adjustable wrench to tighten, use socket set as plastic electrode casings will be compromised. Takes some tork. Probably saved $100-$150 repair call. Wife was pleased. I was suprised how easy.

First research then troubleshoot
Removed
1 Upper rack
2 Lower rack
3 Lower Wash Arm and Strainer Parts
4 Upper Wash and Rinse Parts
5 Accumulator assy.
6 Motor shield
7 Inlet protector (most difficult)
Noticed blade was broken off chopper assy.
Replaced chopper assy.
Runs and cleans like new.
Most difficult step was to remove Inlet protector
After removing two torx screws (#15) used small pry bar to lift inlet protector from position. Not easy to accomplish with hands alone. Inlet protector fits tightly into position.

I searched for another dishrack that was compatible with our unit. After measuring and searching online I found Partselect website and placed the order. It was a very easy process. I bought the rack without wheels and just removed the ones from our current bottom rack and put them on the new rack.

Removed the front panel of the dishwasher. Unhooked the electrical connection between the dishwasher and the dispenser, which was as easy as unplugging a cord from an electrical outlet. Removed the old dispenser and replaced it with the new one. Replaced the front panel. This was a super easy repair.

After replacing broken door cables I had a small leak at the door corner. I replaced door seal with that not fixing the leak and found that the door hinges were bent a little from the cables being broke for awile. Installed new hinges and leak is fixed now. A little difficult but once unit was pulled out about 6 inches the hinges were not bad to replace

Removed back of door to access the screws holding on the air inlet. The top of the door with the controls does not need to be removed, I found out--only the bottom part. Accessing the 5 screws was difficult as there was no space to get the socket onto the screws at a 90 degree angle. Also, there are two plastic shields that fall off when you remove the inlet that need to be replaced, with difficulty because of the accessibility to the area.

PartSelect site is excellent and finding the correct part was relatively simple, although I was not absolutely sure I ordered the right part until it arrived--only one day after ordering, although I paid for the least S&H option.

Replaced the switch, that did not fix it, but a new circuit card did

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.