MDB6769PAB4 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

Used bowls in upright position in upper shelf determining no water to upper shelf after running in rinse cycle. Added a cup of Vinegar in rinse cycle. Performed bowl test in upper rack & still no water in bowls. Dismantled inside of unit by removing both spray arms & found lower seal deteriorated & upper seal in need of replacing. Replaced seals & redid bowl test & found no water getting to top rack still. Found utube vid showing removing garbage disposal portion of unit. Requires removing screen in bottom of dishwasher. One screw attaches garbage disposal cover. Found non food items & food by broken garbage disposal. Repaired disposal, removed debri & reinstalled all components. Redid bowl test in upper shelf & bowls were overflowing!!????Dishwasher works GREAT now & can hear garbage disposal operating along with massive water being sprayed!!!

I took the valve off and actually hooked 110 volts to the vale and tried to blow through it and it would not let air pass through it. I replaced the the new valve in about 15 minutes and it works fine

Turned off the power at the breaker, turned off the water supply, disconnected the water line, removed all three racks, pulled dishwasher out from under the counter, laid the unit on its back, removed the flat plastic water lines from inside the dishwasher, disconnected the hose and all wires (plugs) that were attached to the motor & pump assembly, removed three plastic wedges that held the pump assembly to the bottom of the dishwasher, tried to remove the motor & pump assembly from the inside of the dishwasher but it wouldn't fit through the hole, removed two parts from the motor a silver cylinder with two wires attached to it and a white plastic piece with copper wound wires and magnets in it so that it would fit, once the entire assembly was out removed one screw that holds the motor to the plastic pump assembly, twisted the motor counter clockwise the pulled it straight off, after installing the new motor I removed the silver cylinder (maybe a capacitor) that was attached to the motor leaving the two wires attached to it so that the assembly would fit through the hole in the bottom of the dishwasher, cleaned the rim of the hole and the rubber gasket on the assembly, put the assembly through the hole in the bottom of the dishwasher, installed the three wedges to hold it in place, then put it all back together. When I ran the dishwasher it was as quiet as when it was new.

Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

Pulled washer out far enough to put 2x4’s under front feet. Removed front panel, I clipped wire connector and unplugged it. Pushed plastic locking lever in and twisted unit counterclockwise. Wiped inner rim and reversed above procedure to assemble.

Ordered a new pump (after a online diagnosis). Followed the instruction video on the website...also took the time to replace the discharge hose due to residue buildup...tested dishwasher (one cycle). Slide dishwasher back into opening....DONE. Works perfectly. THANKS

I followed another story for the same repair. Worked great.

I had a common issue on many dishwashers, the final drain cycle was not draining but the pump was trying to turn. Also, the drain pipe was clean. This issue caused a burning smell, like a circuit board heating up. Half plastic smell, half electrical. I bought a replacement pump, followed the pump replacement video instructions from PartsSelect, and it was replaced in under 15 minutes without any tools.

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

Very simple just remove the rakes and then unscrew the covers and pop out the old chopper assembly and replace with the new and then just put all cover back and it works great.

Rather than just replacing the motor and seal, I figured it would be just as easy to replace the sump and pump assembly also. It makes sense because the extra cost is minimal and I have a completely new unit now. The repair is quite simple. Just three clips holding the sump and a few electrical connectors and the unit comes right out.

Removed dishwasher from cabinets replaced motor which was easy to do reinstalled in cabinets and ran cycle. All was good. No noise and no leaking.

At first, I figured the noise was coming from underneath, and took off the bottom front plate. I noticed there was a leak from the center of what I later learned was the "pump" assembly. So I unplugged the dishwasher, disconnected the water and drain from under the sink, unscrewed the screws holding it under the counter, and pulled it out from under the cabinet. Then I laid it on its back, and realized where the leak was coming from. At this point, I thought the noise had been coming from the motor. So I detached the motor (required use of a socket, and realized it was "free", so thought the problem must be further up inside. Reached my fingers in where the motor mounts and found part of the chopper assembly. The "chopper" had torn itself free from the screen. Realized at that moment I needed to disassemble the pump from the top. Took off water distribution system, bottom water rotor, pump plate (required use of "star" screwdrivers, two different sizes), foreign object plate, and chopper assembly cover. Getting the chopper assembly cover off was hard; had to pry it with sharp l-shaped poker; it was adhered with calcium deposits. Finally got it off, found rest of chopper assembly (screen with hole in the middle where chopper had been), ordered chopper from PartSelect, took 3 days, installation was easy, the reverse of removing it. (It is not necessary to remove motor to replace chopper assembly.) However, it is still leaking from the bottom, and I'm at a loss as to how to fix that.