MDB6769AWW2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

You only need to pull it out about 6 to 8 inches and you don’t need to disconnect anything to slide it on

Followed included instructions... worked like a charm!

really easy to repair... no power to control panel but had power from breaker box. Followed directions that came with part, self explanatory, took 10 mins.

Removed the old hose, after loosing metal looking rings. Installed new hose ad finally tight firmly the looking rings, using wrench and socket.

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

Set the unit on its back, disconnected the door springs and slid it up off its hinges. Took off the inner door panel (about 8 hex screws) and then replaced each connection one at a time - removing the old and then connecting the new. Once door was done, reconnected the panel, slid it on its hinges, and then replaced the underside connections one at a time. Once all were done, reconnected door springs, set unit upright, reconnected water and drain, and started washing dishes.

Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.

I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process

Repair was a "no brainer". Pulled out the old gasket, started the replacement of the new gasket in the lower right hand corner and worked all the way around the opening, then trimmed excess gasket of about 2" with a pair of scissors and I was done. Total time - less than 5 minutes.

I opened the dishwasher door, removed the old tired seal in a manner of seconds. I measured the old seal against the new, same length, so no cutting. I started on one side pushing the seal in to the groove, made sure the seal was centered in the door. (not too long on one side or the other) It took less than 5 minutes to place the seal and check that it was all the way in, all around the door. I wiped the door down with some cleaner, where it contacts the seal. The door was harder to close, but I expected that until it breaks in. I ran a short load in the dishwasher with no leaks. :)

I did not get to repair my dishwasher using the part supplied by Partselect.com. I pulled my dishwasher out and found that the connector had fallen of the capacitor during installation. Happy to say that I returned the part for a full refund minus the shipping. Have bought from them before, and will again

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

I spent more time reading the easy instructions several times than it took me to actually do the repair to replace the fuse. I wanted to make sure I fully understood the instructions before I undertook the task. I also checked out a video on You-tube which explained and showed me the same thing as the instructions did. By the time I picked up the screwdriver, I was practically "an expert". I just cut two wires and hooked up two new wires and... done. The instructions were simple....so was the repair. Nothing to it.

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.

I closed the water at the tank and opened all the hot water faucets in the house thereby draining static water from the inlet hose at the valve. Then I unscrewed the inlet hose from the valve, unscrewed the valve body from the support bracket under the tub, unplugged the electrical plug from the valve body, and removed the outlet hose. I installed the new valve using the reverse sequence. Then I closed all the hot water faucets, turned on the hot water at the tank, and purged air from each of the faucets. I then started the dishwasher and ran it through a complete cycle, periodically checking it for leaks, and found none. Total time for uninstall and reinstall - about 30 minutes. Not bad for an 80 year old.