MDB6709AWS0 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

REMEMBER TO SHUT OFF POWER _ Had to remove the screws using TORX driver on the inside door edge-- then came the hard part -- the foam insulation is glued to the inner door and the outer cover- I was able to finally separate the cover leaving the foam on the inner door. Then had to break off the foam insulation on the lower third of the door up from the bottom. I then had access to the screws holding the air inlet to the door. The screws are located so you can't get a straight shot at them and it is very difficult to get at them. These screws are hex head metric and very small. When they are removed the old air inlet will come right off. Take the new one and duct tape it in place inside the door and replace the screws. I recommend doing the outer ones first and since they are the easiest to get started, then you can fight the others a little easier. After the screws are replaced and tightened replace the lower half of the insulating foam by duct taping it to the foam that remained on the inner door. Then replace the outer cover and secure with the TORX screws. This was a time consuming and tough repair. I don't recommend it to a novice.

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Follow the u tube instruction. Replacing the pump was very simple and easy. The hard part was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet and back in again.

Soak up the water in the dishwasher with an old towel. Removed the cover under the dishwasher. Found the pump and twisted it off anti clockwise. Replaced with the new pump. Run a quick cycle, to make sure it pumped out all the water. My wife has used it several times since without any issues.

Followed included instructions... worked like a charm!

really easy to repair... no power to control panel but had power from breaker box. Followed directions that came with part, self explanatory, took 10 mins.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Unscrewed top of dishwasher pulled out wires from old control board and hooked up new one screwed dishwasher top back together, working great!

My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...

Removed DW following great instructions for our unit at: repairclinic.
Problem when removing actual pump as a thin metal screen fell out after. Cleaned it and tried to reinstall the screen. It took over an hour figuring out how the screen went back in as it was cut to fit a certain way and had to try it over and over blindly then try to get it to stay before putting in pump. Finally put DW on its face. It was almost two hours after starting that everything was done exactly as instructed.

Started washer. Water came in perfectly. After about two minutes when the washer arms would start there was a horrible grinding sound and we promptly turned it off. My wife gave up the fight and is washing dishes by hand. That was a $172.00 experience.

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.

Repair was a "no brainer". Pulled out the old gasket, started the replacement of the new gasket in the lower right hand corner and worked all the way around the opening, then trimmed excess gasket of about 2" with a pair of scissors and I was done. Total time - less than 5 minutes.

I had to remove the baskets, spray assemblies (no tools needed) and disassemble the section of the pump that contained the chopper assembly. (removing three Torx screws)
I had to remove a part of the old chopper that had gone into the pump, but I was lucky that a magnet grabbed it so I didn't have to disassemble the pump.
The total repair was not difficult. The only problem was access (hands in the way while repairing difficult to see) and compressing the spring on the new chopper while trying to slip it into the groove.
The parts came in three days and they fit perfectly

I spent more time reading the easy instructions several times than it took me to actually do the repair to replace the fuse. I wanted to make sure I fully understood the instructions before I undertook the task. I also checked out a video on You-tube which explained and showed me the same thing as the instructions did. By the time I picked up the screwdriver, I was practically "an expert". I just cut two wires and hooked up two new wires and... done. The instructions were simple....so was the repair. Nothing to it.