MDB6702AWW0 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The big problem is that you cannot purchase the wheels only. I found that out after ordering the rack track because that looked like what I needed. But it didn't come with the wheels. So I returned it. Then I went to the basement and found things in my junk boxes and fixed it without purchasing the complete parts. Cost: 10 cents for two nuts vs $60 for the required parts.

Difficulty was primarily because there were no instructions for the procedure so trial and error. I suggest: 1) Turn off power circut to the dishwasher. Then remove the star headed screws on the panel with door open and this separates the interior plastic door liner from the exterior door panel 2) remove the 4 screws inside the door that are the final fasteners for the exterior panel and the metal brace 3) bottom of the old door panel is curled and needs to be bent back slightly at the bottom 2 corners with a screw driver or pliers so the old panel can be removed by sliding the panel upward past corner brace while being careful with the electrical connections 4) once the old panel is removed the new one can be slid down the door arms and the interior screws attached 5) finally install the star head screws holding the interior panel and the new exterior panel. Restore electrical power and enjoy the new look of the ss panel.

Accumulator was as easy as just removing srews and replacing the part. The Float I broke by accident and was more complicated to replace required 2 people to manage parts.
Dishes finally coming out clean!

Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.

The part broke off a while ago, and I did not want to call a repair person. The machine still ran, so I ran it with the part missing - the glasses were not very clean, but the repair call was expensive...

I figured that I had a snowballs chance of finding the part number on a molded plastic piece with no numbers printed on it. Boy was I wrong. I was able to choose the part off of a schematic of my machine right on the website and it linked me to the right part order form, so I did not even have to go back and find it on a list.

When the part came, all I had to do was unclip the old mount- with my fingers- no tools, and snap in the new part.

A for maytag for making it easy to fix
A+ for PartSelect for making it so darn easy

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Open door fully. Remove all screws that hold inside panel to Front panel. Carefully remove Inside panel being VERY CAREFULL not to pull wiring out of door switch [top of door] and operator switch panel [also top of door]. Remove door switch, next remove 3 screws holding switch panel in place. Remove the top plastic section where switch panel mounts and set aside. Carefully remove green ground wire from bottem hinge for door. [right side] Next CAREFULLY remove front panel from hinges using EXTREME CARE not to let hinges "free fall" to the open position. Remove old panel. Install new panel in the reverse order as the old one was removed. DO NOT PANIC if you happen to pull the "ribbon cable' out of panel switch. It will plug back in very quickly and only one way. Just make sure it is "seated" in plug. The "key word" for this panel replacement is CAREFULLY.

Removed filter cover and filter and found the plastic chopper sleeve was stripped out. Followed instructions that came with the seal kit to replace it.

Took the dishwaher apart. Found out the float was damaged. Replaced the float and the float switch. Put back together

I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

Basically took out of box and put in dishwasher.

Snapped out the old retainer, snapped in the new. Then snapped in the washer arm. Done. Works great.

Door gasket fit in like a champ! No special tools required - just scissors to trim off the excess ends. Unfortunately this didn't correct the leak. The leak was caused by a Home Inspector who ran the dishwasher without soap. The soap has a defoamer in it. If you run the dishwasher without soap the water mixes with the surfactant in the jet dry and causes foam which results in a door leak. The foam also causes the pump to cavitate which is not healthy for the pump.

remove old seal, put in new - my 10 yr old could do it. Note - there is a white mark on the back of the seal indicating the middle so you can line it up when installing the new seal - makes it easier.

I first listened carefully and noticed that during cycling, the electric motors could be heard starting, stopping, and apparently running normally during both wash and emptying cycles. However, no water was being pumped around during the wash cycles, while emptying (which uses a different motor) worked normally throughout all cycles. Thus it seemed to me that the electronic programming was working correctly in turning both motors on and off as necessary. So I figured somehow the wash motor impella was not turning and pumping water, despite the fact that the motor was indeed running correctly. So I removed all the plastic housings, the screwed on impella, and the metal chopper at the base of dishwasher. Then I was able to easily pry the old plastic chopper sleeve right off of the electric motor shaft (normally it is screwed on and cannot be pryed off). Since the plastic threads inside the chopper sleeve were completely stripped, the motor shaft would turn but the impella would slip on the shaft and not be driven. The replacement sleeve was much better constructed (metal not plastic). It could be easily screwed on to the motor's driveshaft after lifting the old rubber seal and gently holding the motor shaft with a pliers (carefull to avoid scratching the shaft). I removed the old rubber seal nd replaced it with the new one from the kit, right over the newly installed metal chopper sleeve. Next, I easily centered the metal chopper sleeve and pressed in the new seal after reinstalling the plastic/metal chopper screen, using the temporary jig included in the kit. Then the jig was discarded and the impella simply screwed onto the chopper sleeve (using the appropriately threaded hold-down screw provided in the kit). Finally, the rest of the plastic hardware is screwed in place. Waahhlaa...now impella is motor driven again and blows water hard into the dishwasher during the wash and rinse cycles. Total cost of job to do-it-yourself, $29.50 including shipping (which only took three working days). Estimated job if down by appliance repairman, $140 (assuming the repairman didn't first erroneously blame the problem on faulty electronics then charge you hundreds of $$'s to replace circuits which were not broken to begin with, only to find the dishwasher still not washing/rinsing after his expensive electronic circuit replacements. The actually mechanical fix was cheap and simple. Truthfully, there is no excuse for Jenn Aire to ever use a plastic Chopper Sleeve in their dishwashers to begin with.......carefully planned obsolesence if you ask me. Oh well, it works perfect now. I doubt if even the four marbles my 4 year old had tried earlier to wash in my dishwasher (stripping out the original chopper sleeve) would do any damage to the metal replacement. However, I don't plan on testing my hunch. A simple fix, but a slightly challenging diagnosis which relied on a keen sense of hearing and a quiet workplace. Seems many people in these blogs have had the very same problem with their Jenn Air/Maytag dishwashers, and have made the same diagnosis and the same simple fix. Thank you mucho, PartSelect.