MDB6701AWS41 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

after reading a article on problems the logic one was frist the door. Order the part ,took off the inter panel with star slot (10)exposed the handle and switch. Removed it, abit hard at frist,then replacement went in easy , the washer worked.
I guess I was lucky because on the other side of handle similar type of part thats maytag for you.

took screws our of side trim and top trim, decreased height on leveler legs and pulled dishwasher from the cabinet, replaced cables and springs from both sides on the door, lubed door hinges cleaned everything under dishwasher re-inserted and re-installed trim screws. took around an hour with clean up.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

The part broke off a while ago, and I did not want to call a repair person. The machine still ran, so I ran it with the part missing - the glasses were not very clean, but the repair call was expensive...

I figured that I had a snowballs chance of finding the part number on a molded plastic piece with no numbers printed on it. Boy was I wrong. I was able to choose the part off of a schematic of my machine right on the website and it linked me to the right part order form, so I did not even have to go back and find it on a list.

When the part came, all I had to do was unclip the old mount- with my fingers- no tools, and snap in the new part.

A for maytag for making it easy to fix
A+ for PartSelect for making it so darn easy

First I turned off the power at the fuse box. I then removed the 10 screws that hold the door tub panel in place. Then separated the door tub panel from the door. Removed the 3 screws for the black control box. I unplugged the flex cable that runs to the touch panel from the black control box. This is done by sliding the white rectangle clip that holds the flex cable. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front touch panel, which I was replacing. Put on the new touch panel. Replaced the 4 screws. Plugged the flex cable back into the control box. Slid the white rectangle clip back in place to hold the flex cable. Replaced the screws on the control box. Put the door tub panel back in place and replaced the screws. Power turned on, all done and it worked.

Open door fully. Remove all screws that hold inside panel to Front panel. Carefully remove Inside panel being VERY CAREFULL not to pull wiring out of door switch [top of door] and operator switch panel [also top of door]. Remove door switch, next remove 3 screws holding switch panel in place. Remove the top plastic section where switch panel mounts and set aside. Carefully remove green ground wire from bottem hinge for door. [right side] Next CAREFULLY remove front panel from hinges using EXTREME CARE not to let hinges "free fall" to the open position. Remove old panel. Install new panel in the reverse order as the old one was removed. DO NOT PANIC if you happen to pull the "ribbon cable' out of panel switch. It will plug back in very quickly and only one way. Just make sure it is "seated" in plug. The "key word" for this panel replacement is CAREFULLY.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Basically took out of box and put in dishwasher.

remove old seal, put in new - my 10 yr old could do it. Note - there is a white mark on the back of the seal indicating the middle so you can line it up when installing the new seal - makes it easier.

I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

Snapped out the old retainer, snapped in the new. Then snapped in the washer arm. Done. Works great.

Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.

After noticing that the nozzles in the washer arms seemed clogged, I ordered replacements from PartSelect.com. Installing them was a breeze. The upper arm had a torx screw in it and the bottom just required a nut driver to get off. I replaced the arms and ran some DishWasher Magic through it and now my dishes are clean again!

Unscrewed dishwasher from counter and pulled it out from under the counter a few inches. Looked at the side of the dishwasher with the remaining good spring and saw how it was attached: One end was hooked to a little tether strung around a pulley, the other to one of a few steel slots. Copied that side for the new spring and works fine now.