MDB4709PAB3 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I did not get to repair my dishwasher using the part supplied by Partselect.com. I pulled my dishwasher out and found that the connector had fallen of the capacitor during installation. Happy to say that I returned the part for a full refund minus the shipping. Have bought from them before, and will again

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

After looking at what everyone else had done, I decide that I would take the dishwasher out of the wall space and set it on its side. This require me to turn off the power first. Then I pull the diswasher out from its space in the wall. I turned off the the water and then took off the water hose, then took of the return hose. There was water left in both, so there was a little water on the floor as a result of this. Then I finally pulled out the unit and laid it down on its side. The motor was very visible and was easy to access. The hardest part was finding the bolt to take it off. I pulled off the power connector to the motor and then took off the one bolt that was holding the motor on the washer. Then I twisted the motor, but it would not come off. I finally got a screw driver and put it in the small opening between the motor and the connection and it finally came off. This took all of about 30 minutes. Once I got the motor off, I notice that the aluminum grating inside was dirty and needed cleaning. So I cleaned this and put it back inside. The new motor came with every thing, so I put it in and twisted it. Then put back in the bolt, reconnected the power cable, put back on the water and reconnected the output cable. In order to make sure there were no leaks before I put it back in for good, I ran a short wash to check to see if everything was tight. There were no leaks, so I put everything back in the wall. It really did sound very nice now. This dishwasher unit came with noise padding, so I put that back as well. The dishwasher, now is very quite and I don't mind it running any time during the day. The hardest part about this is getting the motor off and find the bolt. It is down between motor and the unit and there was some aluminum between this and the dishwasher, so you need a long nutdriver to get it off.

First I would like to say I was concerned about undertaking a dishwasher repair ,as I now am legally blind and I was concerned that my vision impairment might cause me a problem. My dishwasher pump motor was not running and from the humming sound I could tell it was cycling power off on the thermo switch overload. The pump can be removed by turning it counter clockwise,however it would not move and I could not rotate the motor manually, IT appeared that the impeller must be jammed,so I removed the complete ascribe..After I removed it the motor still could not be removed for replacement. I ordered the complete assembly from PartSelect.com an was supervised how fast it was delivered. The hardest part was getting the seal to go in place as it was new and a tight fit. The Partsselect.com video's ,on repair instructions were very helpful. I reinstalled the dishwasher and everything worked fine.Thanks for thefast delivery of my order.

Easily replaced motor and pump per video. Located high limit thermostat looking up from bottom and held on with two screw bracket. Reset code: push "Hi temp scour" then push "Air dry" then repeat push of "Hi temp scour" / "Air dry". Works like new - thanks.

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.

Husband watched your repair video. Everything went well and we are very pleased.

Follow the u tube instruction. Replacing the pump was very simple and easy. The hard part was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet and back in again.

Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.

Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.

I took the valve off and actually hooked 110 volts to the vale and tried to blow through it and it would not let air pass through it. I replaced the the new valve in about 15 minutes and it works fine

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

Used bowls in upright position in upper shelf determining no water to upper shelf after running in rinse cycle. Added a cup of Vinegar in rinse cycle. Performed bowl test in upper rack & still no water in bowls. Dismantled inside of unit by removing both spray arms & found lower seal deteriorated & upper seal in need of replacing. Replaced seals & redid bowl test & found no water getting to top rack still. Found utube vid showing removing garbage disposal portion of unit. Requires removing screen in bottom of dishwasher. One screw attaches garbage disposal cover. Found non food items & food by broken garbage disposal. Repaired disposal, removed debri & reinstalled all components. Redid bowl test in upper shelf & bowls were overflowing!!????Dishwasher works GREAT now & can hear garbage disposal operating along with massive water being sprayed!!!

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Killed the power and shut off the water. Unhooked and unplugged power, hot water and drain connections to move washer to middle of floor for easy access to all sides. Taking out the the main pump/motor assembly (the "Assembly")required taking out the flat white hot water tube that feeds the upper and middle sprayers. So, I started by taking out the two trays. Then, took out the lower, middle and upper sprayers. Then, tipped the dishwasher onto its front and disconnected the hoses and several electrical connections from the Assembly. Also, unhooked the drain pump motor and impeller from the Assembly since these are not included with the new Assembly. Took out the three sliding retainers to release the Assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher. Took a little gentle coaxing to release the seal between the Assembly and the tub bottom. Took the Assembly apart and found that the problem was the shaft bearing (ball bearings) between the motor and the impeller had rusted and subsequently failed. Therefore, buying just a new motor would have not helped. Inserted the new Assembly into place from inside the tub. Because of the tight seal, the Assembly had to be carefully placed into the tub opening and the seal gently pushed into place by working all the way around in 1 inch intervals. Took about three trips around the seal of the Assembly to ensure a tight, even fit. Otherwise, working unevenly around the perimeter will bind the Assembly and you'll have to remove it and restart. Once in and seated evenly in its place, reconnected the hoses and electrical connections. Installed the drain pump motor and impeller onto the new Assembly. Tested the unit for proper operation and leaks. Found no problems. Then re-installed the water tube, sprayers and trays inside the machine. Helps to jot down steps taken to disassemble so you retrace steps to re-assemble.