MDB4709PAM3 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the easy how-to video from PS. It was as easy as changing a light bulb.

Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video


Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Follow the u tube instruction. Replacing the pump was very simple and easy. The hard part was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet and back in again.

First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.

Soak up the water in the dishwasher with an old towel. Removed the cover under the dishwasher. Found the pump and twisted it off anti clockwise. Replaced with the new pump. Run a quick cycle, to make sure it pumped out all the water. My wife has used it several times since without any issues.

Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.

Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.

Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.

I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!

After looking at what everyone else had done, I decide that I would take the dishwasher out of the wall space and set it on its side. This require me to turn off the power first. Then I pull the diswasher out from its space in the wall. I turned off the the water and then took off the water hose, then took of the return hose. There was water left in both, so there was a little water on the floor as a result of this. Then I finally pulled out the unit and laid it down on its side. The motor was very visible and was easy to access. The hardest part was finding the bolt to take it off. I pulled off the power connector to the motor and then took off the one bolt that was holding the motor on the washer. Then I twisted the motor, but it would not come off. I finally got a screw driver and put it in the small opening between the motor and the connection and it finally came off. This took all of about 30 minutes. Once I got the motor off, I notice that the aluminum grating inside was dirty and needed cleaning. So I cleaned this and put it back inside. The new motor came with every thing, so I put it in and twisted it. Then put back in the bolt, reconnected the power cable, put back on the water and reconnected the output cable. In order to make sure there were no leaks before I put it back in for good, I ran a short wash to check to see if everything was tight. There were no leaks, so I put everything back in the wall. It really did sound very nice now. This dishwasher unit came with noise padding, so I put that back as well. The dishwasher, now is very quite and I don't mind it running any time during the day. The hardest part about this is getting the motor off and find the bolt. It is down between motor and the unit and there was some aluminum between this and the dishwasher, so you need a long nutdriver to get it off.

Put the kick plate under the dishwasher and screwed it in. Easy!

I had to remove the baskets, spray assemblies (no tools needed) and disassemble the section of the pump that contained the chopper assembly. (removing three Torx screws)
I had to remove a part of the old chopper that had gone into the pump, but I was lucky that a magnet grabbed it so I didn't have to disassemble the pump.
The total repair was not difficult. The only problem was access (hands in the way while repairing difficult to see) and compressing the spring on the new chopper while trying to slip it into the groove.
The parts came in three days and they fit perfectly