MDB4709AWB2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The repair was straightforward. The hardest parts were pulling the dishwasher out from the counter and keeping the dishwasher from falling forward when I needed to reach inside. The instructions in the video were accurate. I was very glad I bought the rubber washers, because I could not reuse the washers from the original heating element. Easy enough repair to do on your own.

removed kick panel with screwdriver, 90 degree turn of screw. Put towel under drain pump. Disconnect drain hose by loosening spring clip with pliers to provide access to pump. released spring clip on old motor while turning counterclockwise to separate pump from drain reservoir. inspect drain reservoir from inside machine to remove any foreign objects. Installed new pump by indexing attachment flanges to notches in reservoir and turning pump clockwise until locking tab makes audible click. reattach drain hose insuring hose is contacting "stop" ribs on drain hose pipe. Run wash cycle on machine to insure there are no leaks. Re-attached kick panel.

Pulled washer out far enough to put 2x4’s under front feet. Removed front panel, I clipped wire connector and unplugged it. Pushed plastic locking lever in and twisted unit counterclockwise. Wiped inner rim and reversed above procedure to assemble.

Very simple just remove the rakes and then unscrew the covers and pop out the old chopper assembly and replace with the new and then just put all cover back and it works great.

Long story short, noticed one of two leaks and came to conclusion there is no workaround since sump pump gasket seems to be hermetically sealed to sump pump. Which is understandable because of water in area. Wife helped by soaking other parts that were removed and replaced, because of calcium buildup. Which we hope will extend life of dishwasher. I put 1 to 2 hours because I took my time and made sure all parts fit correctly and were back in their original place. Didn't want to take any chances in not covering bases. I am no expert, but definitely a diy'er. I believed I saved myself anywhere from $200 to $300 in labor costs by repairman. By the way, thanks Parts Select your info and site are awesome!!! The second part I had to order was the water inlet valve and your phone representative was a big help over the phone, please don't eliminate those positions. Overall total price of parts approximately $130 w/delivery. Well worth it, since a brand new halfway decent dishwasher starts at $550.

At first, I figured the noise was coming from underneath, and took off the bottom front plate. I noticed there was a leak from the center of what I later learned was the "pump" assembly. So I unplugged the dishwasher, disconnected the water and drain from under the sink, unscrewed the screws holding it under the counter, and pulled it out from under the cabinet. Then I laid it on its back, and realized where the leak was coming from. At this point, I thought the noise had been coming from the motor. So I detached the motor (required use of a socket, and realized it was "free", so thought the problem must be further up inside. Reached my fingers in where the motor mounts and found part of the chopper assembly. The "chopper" had torn itself free from the screen. Realized at that moment I needed to disassemble the pump from the top. Took off water distribution system, bottom water rotor, pump plate (required use of "star" screwdrivers, two different sizes), foreign object plate, and chopper assembly cover. Getting the chopper assembly cover off was hard; had to pry it with sharp l-shaped poker; it was adhered with calcium deposits. Finally got it off, found rest of chopper assembly (screen with hole in the middle where chopper had been), ordered chopper from PartSelect, took 3 days, installation was easy, the reverse of removing it. (It is not necessary to remove motor to replace chopper assembly.) However, it is still leaking from the bottom, and I'm at a loss as to how to fix that.

After disassembling the entire motor assembly, I discovered the chopper assembly was broken. This could have been accessed from the top. in any event, I found the problem and fixed it with a new part. After re-assembling the unit there was a small leak coming form the edge of the motor assembly this was resolved by removing the gasket and smoothing out the contact surfaces that were damaged by the removal of the motor assembly.

laid dishwasher on its side and unscrewed element. returned unit upright & replaced element. reversed process and reinstalled unit under cabinet

Unplug (disconnect power)
Shut off water
Disconnect water supply line
Clean up any water spills
Remove clips holding air gap hose and wire inside cabinet.
Open dishwasher door and remove two screws that secure dishwasher to cabinet (these are at top of door opening).
With door closed, remove panel under door (this has a screw clamp on each side that requires a quarter turn to release).
Lower the dishwasher as necessary to provide vertical clearance by adjusting leveling legs.
Pull dishwasher out from under counter (grip from under door) far enough to expose springs (one on each side). Take care to feed all connecting lines smoothly through cabinet opening.
Note how existing springs are installed.
Install new spring in the same fashion as the old spring was installed.
Test the door operation.

Push unit back under counter taking care to draw connecting lines back through cabinet opening.
Readjust leveling legs as needed.
Reattach unit to counter top.
Reattach water supply and open valve.
Check for water leaks both at valve and under unit, fix as necessary.
Replace panel under door.
Replace any clips inside cabinet.
Reconnect power

The repair was very straightforward. I followed the excellent video provided by Part Select and the repair went exactly as shown in the video.

The only minor challenge was removing the dish washer from the cabinet, and disconnecting the utilities (electrical, water, drain), as these elements of the repair were not covered by the video. Fortunately Part Select included a copy of the installation instructions that come with this dishwasher; those instructions gave me the information that i needed to "uninstall" and "reinstall" the dishwasher as part of the repair.

It is a small plastic piece which serves as a stop on the right side of the upper rack. It is the correct part because it is identical to the left one of the same type. I tried clamping down with a pair of pliers but I am afraid of breaking it. With shipping this two inch piece of plastic cost $20, so I do not want to crack it. I am at a loss as to how to sit in in place.

Couldn't do the repair because you people sent the wrong part.
I ordered #1174536, spray arm seal, but got #wp8268340, bearing.
Waiting for you to make this right.
Please feel free to publish this. Tom Hanna

Repair not completed due to wrong part received because an image of the part needed was not posted on website. I could only trust the one-word description, “wheel”, was describing the part I ordered. It was not.

Could not take apart the upper rack on my whirlpool dishwasher to replace its wheels to transport its upper rack. The received parts did not match the old ones. Called parts and they suggested these new parts remanufactured and changed from the old ones but they had not been notified. Brought to professional mechanics and they figured it out. Bullshit parts company!!

After doing some research on the Kitchen Aid issues. I turned off the breaker. Remove the (6) #15 Torx bit screws from the inside upper panel and removed the outside control panel. I located the Bi-Metal Fuse. I turned the breaker back on.Took a Electric Meter and it showed power only on one side. I order the part (BI-Metal Fuse) from the company. Turned the breaker off to there dishwasher. Very easy to install. I cut and trim the (2) wires. Match the black wire with the white stripe to the exact same color code and do the same for the all black wire. Install one wire at a time and tighten down with a small pocket screw driver. Then use the plastic tie straps to secure the (Bi-Metal Fuse).Turn the breaker back on. You are good to go.