MDB4409PAS2 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Killed the power and shut off the water. Unhooked and unplugged power, hot water and drain connections to move washer to middle of floor for easy access to all sides. Taking out the the main pump/motor assembly (the "Assembly")required taking out the flat white hot water tube that feeds the upper and middle sprayers. So, I started by taking out the two trays. Then, took out the lower, middle and upper sprayers. Then, tipped the dishwasher onto its front and disconnected the hoses and several electrical connections from the Assembly. Also, unhooked the drain pump motor and impeller from the Assembly since these are not included with the new Assembly. Took out the three sliding retainers to release the Assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher. Took a little gentle coaxing to release the seal between the Assembly and the tub bottom. Took the Assembly apart and found that the problem was the shaft bearing (ball bearings) between the motor and the impeller had rusted and subsequently failed. Therefore, buying just a new motor would have not helped. Inserted the new Assembly into place from inside the tub. Because of the tight seal, the Assembly had to be carefully placed into the tub opening and the seal gently pushed into place by working all the way around in 1 inch intervals. Took about three trips around the seal of the Assembly to ensure a tight, even fit. Otherwise, working unevenly around the perimeter will bind the Assembly and you'll have to remove it and restart. Once in and seated evenly in its place, reconnected the hoses and electrical connections. Installed the drain pump motor and impeller onto the new Assembly. Tested the unit for proper operation and leaks. Found no problems. Then re-installed the water tube, sprayers and trays inside the machine. Helps to jot down steps taken to disassemble so you retrace steps to re-assemble.

At first, I figured the noise was coming from underneath, and took off the bottom front plate. I noticed there was a leak from the center of what I later learned was the "pump" assembly. So I unplugged the dishwasher, disconnected the water and drain from under the sink, unscrewed the screws holding it under the counter, and pulled it out from under the cabinet. Then I laid it on its back, and realized where the leak was coming from. At this point, I thought the noise had been coming from the motor. So I detached the motor (required use of a socket, and realized it was "free", so thought the problem must be further up inside. Reached my fingers in where the motor mounts and found part of the chopper assembly. The "chopper" had torn itself free from the screen. Realized at that moment I needed to disassemble the pump from the top. Took off water distribution system, bottom water rotor, pump plate (required use of "star" screwdrivers, two different sizes), foreign object plate, and chopper assembly cover. Getting the chopper assembly cover off was hard; had to pry it with sharp l-shaped poker; it was adhered with calcium deposits. Finally got it off, found rest of chopper assembly (screen with hole in the middle where chopper had been), ordered chopper from PartSelect, took 3 days, installation was easy, the reverse of removing it. (It is not necessary to remove motor to replace chopper assembly.) However, it is still leaking from the bottom, and I'm at a loss as to how to fix that.

Long story short, noticed one of two leaks and came to conclusion there is no workaround since sump pump gasket seems to be hermetically sealed to sump pump. Which is understandable because of water in area. Wife helped by soaking other parts that were removed and replaced, because of calcium buildup. Which we hope will extend life of dishwasher. I put 1 to 2 hours because I took my time and made sure all parts fit correctly and were back in their original place. Didn't want to take any chances in not covering bases. I am no expert, but definitely a diy'er. I believed I saved myself anywhere from $200 to $300 in labor costs by repairman. By the way, thanks Parts Select your info and site are awesome!!! The second part I had to order was the water inlet valve and your phone representative was a big help over the phone, please don't eliminate those positions. Overall total price of parts approximately $130 w/delivery. Well worth it, since a brand new halfway decent dishwasher starts at $550.

Very simple just remove the rakes and then unscrew the covers and pop out the old chopper assembly and replace with the new and then just put all cover back and it works great.

Rather than just replacing the motor and seal, I figured it would be just as easy to replace the sump and pump assembly also. It makes sense because the extra cost is minimal and I have a completely new unit now. The repair is quite simple. Just three clips holding the sump and a few electrical connectors and the unit comes right out.

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

Removed dishwasher from cabinets replaced motor which was easy to do reinstalled in cabinets and ran cycle. All was good. No noise and no leaking.

I removed the upper dishrack easily by removing the end clips and sliding the tray out. Removal of the revolving sprayer was easy as it just clipped on to the bottom of the rack. The rack was not the rack that was ordered and I was informed that this was the correct rack for the dishwasher even though the description and picture was different that what I received. There were no instructions with the rack to explain how to attach the "flaps" that can go over lightweight dishes to keep them from flipping. Every way I tried to attach the flaps did not work. When I was able to attach one it would pop off if I raised the flap to place a dish underneath it. I finally gave up on the flaps and reinserted the rack onto the rails and put the end clips back in place. The rack works fine other than it is not the one that was described and was not the rack that I wanted.

tom boy single Mom- not too difficult! Follow the video and installation procedures. My only problem was lining up the chopper blade, with the need to install on an angle and connect copper assembly with the motor, and align with groove, needle nose pliers did not work for me, due to the fact, pliers seemed to angle the chopper assembly and did not received equal pressure between the blade and the screen.( I did not have a collection of needle nose pliers to chose from) I used a fork to give even pressure distribution and keep the assembly even and it slipped right into position, remembering to line up all connections between the motor and the chopper assembly, the fork give me the ability to angle the assembly. Its like having a new dishwasher, I use the light setting now when washing a load. Saved $$$$$$$ and X-mas is on the way!!! Thanks Parts Direct!!! Will re-order when the next appliance repair occurs.

After several weeks of decreasingly clean dishes on the top rack of our dishwasher, I did some digging & found that my chopper assembly was broken (the washer had come off & the parts were loose). I ordered a new chopper assembly here. Once I received it, the entire repair took less than 30 minutes. I removed the old chopper assembly, used a shop vac to remove the excess water & food particles, then reinstalled the new chopper assembly using the instructional video provided. The dishwasher is back up & running like brand new. The top rack is getting cleaned thoroughly once again. PartSelect made the process extremely easy & affordable!

removed the upper and lower baskets, removed the lower wash arm by rotating the center bearing assembly (its the flat piece in the very center of the lower wash arm) by the way it has a reverse thread...not righty tighty and lefty loosey... it is reverse the normal rotation.. i unlocked the upper arm assembly from it's clip on to mount as well as the clip on to mount on the back wall, looking at the very center pump cover strainer, you will see that the assembly that goes from the pump area to the very top of the machine needs to be rotated clock wise where it locks into the pump strainer assembly. now remove the four star type screws from the face of the strainer, now you can lift out the entire bottom of the machine you will see the half round cover in the bottom of the well, remove one smaller size star screw. simply remove the chopper assembly and install the new assembly as indicated in the instructions provided, be sure to use the trick with the open end wrench as per instruction sheet, makes it easy. now follow the bread crumbs you left on the yellow brick road to reassemble.

After reading customer notes regarding the same problem I was having I ordered A new Heater Element & a High Limit Thermostat. I also ordered a Heating Element Nut and Rubber Washer in case I needed them. It took me quite some time to remove the dishwasher from under my counter. Once the unit was out and prepared to service it actually took only a few minutes to install the new Heater Element. I did't need the washer or extra Nut. I also decided to try the unit without replacing the thermostat. I cleared the diagnostics by pressing the "HEATED DRY, "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" buttons. After the controller reset the dishwasher was ready to run.

Unscrewed brackets from underneath counter that hold dishwasher in place. Pulled dishwasher out of cabinet to access door hinges (approximately 8 to 12 inches). Released springs from door hinge (not necessary to remove spring from hole in dishwasher frame). Did not have to remove old sleeve because they tear and fall off. Slipped sleeve over door hinge to groove where they sit on hinge. Note: pulling hinge away from dishwasher a little. helps to complete installation.
Reinstall spring over hinge and check that door will stay a partial open. Slide dishwasher back in place and install screws from bracket to underside of counter.
My dishwasher only had two screws under counter to hold in place. Some installations have screws at sides also.

The replacement os the part is very easy if you know how to disconnect the pipes for the upper deck (for my model, you take the pipe out of the clip on the back wall and swing to the right about 30 degrees). You need 2 different size star screwdrivers to remove the rest of the assembly, 6 screws in all. The choopper assembly is easy to remove and replace. Just make sure you pull the spring loaded blade back so it can fit into its maid. Reconnecting the pipes back up can be tricky. Make sure the pip is connected at the 30 degree angle, then bring into it's normal position.

checked all the plactic tubes for clogs used water hose and they worked ok checked into top of pump found chopper assembly had come apart replaced washes like a new one