MDB6601AWQ Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Spent 1 hr following video. Difficulty was taking part apart & attaching new latch handle to latch assembly. Called PS tel support & spoke w/Breanna who was patient & tried her best to coach me. Sent photos to her via email to show what part looked like. Her boss discovered latch was attached upside down. Tried very hard to reattach in the correct direction. To no avail. Was advised to call Whirlpool tech. Instead, contacted handyman to complete repair.

The first tine pivot broke and parts select sent me out A NEW ONE RIGHT AWAY. THE NEW ONE WENT RIGHT IN. FOR THE LATCH ASSEMBLY I SIMPLY REMOVED THE SCREWS AROUND THE DOOR AND TOOK OFF THE OLD LATCH AND PLUGGED THE NEW IN PUT BACK THE SCREWS AND THE JOB WAS DONE. IT ONLY TOOK ME AROUND 10 MINUTES.

All i had to do was ....first unplug the dishwasher,then remove 10 of the Torx head screws on the inside of the door.(from the top down)
With that done i could open the cover without taking it off. then unplug the switches,and replace the new handle.
screw the cover back in place.
done! piece a cake!
MD
PS (don't forget to plug it back in)

It was very easy to install, took maybe 5 mins if that, and works like a charm -

*Remove "caps" from ends of the slide rails by pressing in the tab, this will allow you to remove the rack entirely -

*Remove the rack from main dishwasher body -

*Remove original torx screws -

*Remove the assembly, which comes apart in 2 sections, and note location as you do it ( I counted how many "rungs" from the nearest corner -

*Keeping the "inner" section, replace the "outer" section with the new piece -

*Fit the new piece and the original piece back together with the rack in between -

*Screw the torx screws (which you kept right?) back in -

*Slide the rack back intothe slide rails -

*Replace the end caps on the rails -

***Et voila! you're done, and happy to not be ripped....again.

Many outfits in my area would NOT sell the part and wanted to come install it themselves for as much as $250, what creeps!!

Any housewife could and should do this, and although I'm pretty handy, this is very definitely the kind of thing homeowners should do themselves if for no other reason than to have the satisfaction of knowing they didn't get ripped off by callous and immoral repair services.

Simple. Unscrew the old one, replace with the new one.
The best part- Online said it would take 5-7 days to recieve thru the mail. It arrived the very next day!!!!

I needed a simple clip for a fold-away dishwasher rack. MAYTAG was NO HELP--except they did supply me the right part number that MAYTAG posted on websites in error. MAYTAG said they could not ship it to me--not a consumer item!! Well, I found the part at PARTSELECT.com, I had it in three days and installed it in about 10 minutes. Our clip has been broken for 2 years and it ended up being a 10 minute fix!! GREAT JOB PARTSELECT.com!!!!

First turned off power to dishwasher. Then, I removed all the screws on the dishwasher door. Removed old plastic door latch from wire assembly piece. Pressed on latches for square small wire boxes connected to wire assembly piece to be able to handle wire assembly plastic piece without attachment to dishwasher. Tried to snap door handle to wire assembly plastic piece, but didn't seem to fit - was too tight. Checked for discussion online and found that it required heavy pressure to snap in place. Used pliers to clamp down on outer plastic on wire assembly piece to squeeze fit door latch plastic hooks in place. This was difficult, but with heavy pressure finally managed to snap in outer hooks. Then with difficulty snapped in inner hooks. Was afraid of breaking new plastic piece, but all worked out well. Door has never opened and closed so well!!

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Accumulator was as easy as just removing srews and replacing the part. The Float I broke by accident and was more complicated to replace required 2 people to manage parts.
Dishes finally coming out clean!

Read the Q & A, watched the videos and tried not to drop any screws into the wash tub. Walter from Tucson, AZ made a great point about not overtightening any screws that bed into plastic.

First I turned off the power at the fuse box. I then removed the 10 screws that hold the door tub panel in place. Then separated the door tub panel from the door. Removed the 3 screws for the black control box. I unplugged the flex cable that runs to the touch panel from the black control box. This is done by sliding the white rectangle clip that holds the flex cable. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front touch panel, which I was replacing. Put on the new touch panel. Replaced the 4 screws. Plugged the flex cable back into the control box. Slid the white rectangle clip back in place to hold the flex cable. Replaced the screws on the control box. Put the door tub panel back in place and replaced the screws. Power turned on, all done and it worked.

First, we removed all of the screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel and lifted it up. (we didn't take it completely off because that would have required disconnecting wires so we just held it up out of the way.)

Second, the plastic on the latch assembly was broken so that part came out fairly easily. The hard part was disconnecting the metal prongs that plug it in to the door control wires. We tried everything--prying, pulling--and finally got all three of us in there. One pulled on the latch end of the prongs, the other pulled on the door wiring end of the prongs, and I squeezed the prongs in-between with needle nose pliers. This broke the prongs on the latch side, which was fine since we were replacing the entire latch (the directions in the service manual we downloaded didn't give any indication that disconnecting the prongs would be difficult--I feel like there must be a trick to it, but breaking the prongs worked fine too!)

Third, we plugged in the prongs of the new latch--went in easily!--and popped the new latch into place in the door. It wasn't held securely, probably because of the broken plastic, but we replaced the inner door and screwed it in place, and when we shut the door it worked.

removed plastic clips, slid top rack out, unscrewed the rack adjuster, screwed in the new one... done...

Two things to look for

1) you definitely need a star shaped screw driver
2) pay attention when you take the spring adjuster out, it will be easier to put back in

Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.

I removed eight screws and installed the new parts. The replacement factory parts are better then the originals and the latch handle should not break again. Had I called for service it would have cost $149 (not incuding parts) just for them to show up to look at it and tell me that they need to order these same parts. Plus, I would have had to wait an addtional two weeks for them to order the parts and come back to do the repair since most service companies do not carry parts with them. Their parts are marked up and would have cost 30% more for the same factory parts I order from you. The parts including shipping were $36.30 and I had the repair completed in three days, including standard shipping time. Quite a savings! and very easy to complete the repair.

Thank you!