MDB9150AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

received new basket without a basket handle; had to remove handle from old basket & attach it to new basket; took 2 separate tries to remove old handle & each try took about an hour; used screwdriver & pliers but had to be careful not to break handle; eventually used dimes to pry open & hold the attached sections of the handle open in order to free the handle from the old basket; we sure hope the new basket lasts a lot longer than the 2 years that the old basket lasted before it broke.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

I figured it had to be either the motor or control panel so I gambled that it was the control since it had been draining but stopping midway through the cycle.
Removing the inner door panel was a piece of cake. When a small electronic part rolled out to meet me as I removed the panel, I was pretty sure that I'd found the problem. I simply disconnected the wiring, taking care to notice the arrangement and plugged in the new unit. Then I gently tightened the mounting screws, and replaced the door panel, being careful not to twist as I tightened it. The old girl fired right up!

I recieved a different part than was in the picture and description that I ordered, and was billed twice for it. I wasn't able to fix my dishwasher

Simply had to replace the clips in the correct position. Would have been a five minute job if I had noticed which way around the old parts went before removing them from the dishwasher to find replacements. It's amazing hoe many permutations there were before it all fit together perfectly.

We had tried to use dish washer cleaners, and they would work for a time, but we started spending more money on cleaner than we wanted. I ordered and then I replaced the lower spray arm. It took a little effort to get the top screw off, due to hard water deposits. The new one went on very easily, just screwed right in like the old one. It's working great and I really don't mind not getting a new one or paying for a service call!!!

unscrewed the fasteners removed the handle and lock unit replaced the handle, replaced the fasteners

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Replaced with the new basket. However, the part had been replaced, and I do not like the new setup. One basket has been replace with 2 that are hooked together. Each basket has a cover, but it covers the whole side, not just a part. In my old basket, I had a part of the basket with a cover that could hold plastic lids and measuring spoons that can easily wash out of the basket and hit the heating element on the bottom. My "fix" was to remove both lids and use the lid from the old basket to cover one part of the new basket. It's not very satisfactory, as it is not hinged and had to be removed and tucked in each time!

I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.

Ordered BOTH the front and rear tines as the front tine showed some superficial rust through the plastic covering in a couple of spots. Re-used the tine holders which were still solid condition and flexible. Snapped bowl holder tine unit out of dishwasher, snapped new tines in place, snapped unit back in dishwasher. Took 5 minutes or less. All other parts of the dishwasher rack were still in excellent condition with no cracked spots on the vinyl covering or rusted spots visible anwhere.

unscrew screen and cover and unbolt impeller replace with new parts. everything goes back together easily, anyone with even minimal repair skills should be able to do this repair.