MDC4000AWX Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

I turned the dishwasher onto it's back. Using pliers, I grabbed right behind the remnants of the broken wheel and gently pried it out (took about 5 seconds). It popped out. I put the new white sleeve and then the caster wheel into the now open hole, slowly set the dishwasher back up and let it drop the last 2 inches. That pushed the wheel securely up into the sleeve. The entire replacement took less than 2 minutes! Super easy.

I first removed the bottom access panel and 2 upper screws holding the dishwasher to the counter. Be sure to remove the standing water in the bottom tray. I pulled the chassis far enough forward to reach where the top shower hose attaches ( the supply line and wire had enough slack to move the chassis ). Not knowing how the rotating shower arm attached, I unscrewed the ribbed retaining ring above it, and found the whole assembly came loose - freeing the upper end of the shower hose. Put a shallow tray under the lower end of the shower hose to catch the remaining water and loosen the hose clamp to free the remaining end of the hose. Transfer the rubber washer at the top end and the hose clamp at the bottom, to the new hose and install. A quick repair, but one that shouldn't be needed on a 4 year old dishwasher.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

My handy husband was able to take it apart easy, and then your online site was great at showing us exactly which parts were needed to replace. Then a few mintues to put the 4 pieces together and now I've got all the room I need for the extra dishes!!The whole experience was so easy and very helpful!! thank-you very much!!

I went to take the bottom front panel off and ended up dropping the screw down behind the baseboard and then found that I did not need to take the panel off. The broken end of the float was not obstructing and I was able to just drop the new float in place. I spent more time looking for a replacement screw than any thing else. Ran it and it works fine.

I followed instructions of others that were posted. Door seal was simply removing old seal, cleaning track and pushing new seal in,making sure it was even all around. Removing the door cover to get at the Dispenser grommet was simply removing all 7 hex nut screws. Had to go out and buy the proper hex nut screwdriver . I did not remove the wiring, just turned cover over to remove the two nuts holding the dispenser. The nut on the left was a little hard to get off, had to kind of force the socket onto the nut. Otherwise all went well and simply removed the old grommet and installed new one. Finding the right tools was the part that took the longest. I had hard water before putting in a water softener so that was probably hard on the seals plus the machine was an older model. No problems now and saved having someone come in and do a repair.

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

I have a new faucet so I remove the screen then I used an extender ring put on your adapter an got the washer to run.

Although the (top) dishrack assembly included the nylon wheeles, it was easier to replace the old one by disengaging it from its wheels and installing the new rack on the old wheels kept in the slider track. The snap hook that held each wheel to the old rack was popped loose (finger pressure) and the old rack removed. The new rack was held in place and each of the four wheels snapped to it. Each wheel fits into a wire post on the basket and the plastic hook snaps onto the wire frame. The most difficult part of the 'repair' was removal of the handle from the old silver ware basket. I used screwdrivers to simultaneously pry the four tabs of the halde out of the slots on the basket and pulled (hard!) the handle off. It snapped easily into place on the new basket.

Just snap the new spray arm into place. One minute or less.

received new basket without a basket handle; had to remove handle from old basket & attach it to new basket; took 2 separate tries to remove old handle & each try took about an hour; used screwdriver & pliers but had to be careful not to break handle; eventually used dimes to pry open & hold the attached sections of the handle open in order to free the handle from the old basket; we sure hope the new basket lasts a lot longer than the 2 years that the old basket lasted before it broke.

Unscrewed bottom panel. I could see right spring in proper position, left spring lying on floor, and broken linkage. Ordered part from partselect.com. To install, had to unscrew dishwasher attachment to counter, loosen leveling legs, pull it out a bit, then could replace linkage and reattach spring, retighten leveling legs, then push back in and replace screws and bottom panel.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.