MDC4100AWE Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I had to remove the screws around the door frame and remove the side panels that attached the inside cover from the interior of the door. Once I removed it I could then unscrew the top cover that then allowed me to remove an inside cover for the internal electrical connections and the door latch was then open for repair. The electrical connections to both sides of the door switch and holder assemby had to be pulled from the assembly and I was then able to remove the assembly and the door latch. The new door holder and latch handle had to be connected to the electrical wires and inserted back into the door and the initial process was reversed to reinstall.

First I installed the spray diverter,then I installed the discharge housing nut and tightened it down. Last I snapped on the spray diverter cap.

Very easy to do. Used needle nose pliers just to get a first grip on the door gasket and then pulled it completely out. Pulled up the Water Deflectors by hand. Cleaned the gasket trough with a soft cloth, warm water and dishwashing detergent. Rinsed. Then simply pushed the gasket into the trough, lightly tapping into place, then pushed on the water deflectors, and no more leak!

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

Removed the old gasket, without tools, and fit the new gasket into the space, making sure it was in the groove correctly all around, job done, works great. The ordering of the gasket on this site was easy and the shipping time was amazing, one day. Would use this company again, and recommend to anyone needing parts that wants to do repairs themself. I am sure saved a whole lot over hiring someone, and got the job done sooner also.

First I unplugged the dishwasher since I was working on the electrical. I just unscrewed all the screws on the inside of the door till I could get down to the door latch. I found that a tiny piece of plastic had broken off of the white bracket that holds the electrical switches (these turn it on when the door latches and off when the door opens). I had to break several tiny plastic prongs off the old bracket in order to pull the switches out of it (gently so the wires wouldn't pull out of the switches) and the door handle latch fell out easily. Then it was easy to snap the switches back into the new bracket, and slip the handle latch back in, and screw everything back down. It worked! I've never worked on a dishwasher before but looking at the photos of all the various parts (even the ones I didn't need to use) really helped me to see how the things go together and to narrow it down to which part I would need. The dishwasher was totally un-usable and all I spent to make it run again was less than $5. Thanks to Partselect!

removed clamps with screwdriver from bottom of dishwasher and clamp from sink drain. I taped the new hose to the old one and pulled it through. worked perfect.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

I had to replace the faucet in the kitchen sink orignnally. However since I use a porteable dishwasher, its hose connects to the kitchen faucet. The new faucets aerator is threaded differently than the old so that the dishwasher adapter would not screw in. I had misplaced the adappter kit that came with the dishwasher last year, so I ordered the adapter from partselect.com. when the part came a few day it was a simple as screw out the old aerator, screwing in the new adapted and then putting the modified aerator from the old faucet back in so that the dishwasher can be connected as needed.

1- turn power off. 2- remove 7 screws to take door apart 3- remove 2 screws to take dispenser out. 4- i unhooked electic plug from it. 5- replace grommet and all back together. not bad to be 72 years old.

My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

Our dishwasher got to the point where it would not complete a wash cycle. I found that by jiggling the door latch, the dishwasher would whir back to life. For awhile, if I put a clothespin on the door latch, somehow enough pressure would be put on the switch to keep the dishwasher going. Finally, the dishwasher refused to cooperate...so I ordered a replacement switch.

The repair was easy. I only had to remove the interior door panel, unscrew the metal bar at the top of the door and underneath the door panel, then remove the black plastic shield. After that, it was just a matter of wiggling the old switch out and wiggling the new switch.

CAUTION: Be very sure that the power to the dishwasher is turned off. I got a scare because I thought the circuit breaker was off, but I had flipped the wrong one and suddenly, with my fingers very close to the bare connectors, the dishwasher came back to life briefly. I ran downstairs and found the correct circuit breaker and all was fine after that.