WC301 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the back - Saw the broken clips on the base of the dryer (the wires to the motor were pulling out because the motor was slipping).

Guessed that the parts were motor clips (no pix in the web site!)

Got the parts in post - they were identical except needed some rubber grips inside to hold tight (Used pieces of bike tire inner tube cut to fit for this.) Attached clips. Works fine!!

(Son is an engineer - he found the problem. Husband is a retired doctor - he couldn't!! but together they
supplied the muscle)
Sue (67 years old)

I removed the 4 lower Phillips head screws on the lower inside of the door.(thanks to a tip from Robert) This removed the front panel allowing access to the detergent cup. I removed the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. Removed the old detergent cup and gasket. Installed the new cup and gasket and reinstalled the front panel. Amazingly easy. Now it's on to my stove. I'm hooked on your website

I removed the access panel and it was right there. one screw - disconect the wires & it was out. then right back in - access panel on, and done.

replaced the faucet adapter I did not save when I change out the kitchen sink faucet set

Maytag dealer said the part was unavailable but there I sat looking at it.

Removed the front covers on the bottom of the dish washer. I found it extremely difficult to stretch the belt over the second pulley so I soaked the belt in hot water for a few minutes to soften it. After I soaked the belt it stretched enough for me to work it into both pulleys. Don't forget to apply the grease (supplied with the belt) after the belt is installed.

Changed float switch to no avail! Ladeled out the water. Disassembled the entire pump unit inside down to the motor shaft and checked all pieces for trouble. Could find nothing wrong. Now trying to determine if the problem is in the timer or motor.

replaced gasket.Didn't fix leaking water problem.I believed that there was too much water in washer, when the problem occurred.Found that the float had soap build up in it making it too heavy,letting in more water than the washer can handle.Cleaned build up from float and problem seems to have disappeared.

Removed the kick plates to access the pulley system, Heated the clear belt in hot water and installed it by rotating the large pulley to stretch the belt on. Then added the lubricant to the belt. Reinstalled the kick plates with nut driver.

After discovering the broken belt. 2 Days later I had the new belt from partselect. I placed the belt on the motor pulley then after 3-4 attempts was able to get the belt on the other pulley. It will go on. Comments from other customers really helped. After you get belt on then apply lub, per instructions. My maytag is over 20 years old still works great.

"The order arrived in relatively short order. However, the installation must have been hilarious to any observer. Imagiine an arthritic septuagenerian getting down on the floor and wallowing about fitting a dish washer belt. Hints: 1. Grasp the pulley on the pump with your left hand from under the discharge hose (more room than over the hose) when fitting the belt to the rear of that pulley. 2. Use a hot pad (not an emroidered & quilted one reserved for company) to protect your L forearm from the frame member on the bottom of the machine. Getting up was worse than getting down, but it works! In dishwasher years it's much older than I am."

based on instructions from previous customers, took off front control and door panel, removed old gasket, replaced new gasket by aligning tabs and pulling through with needle nose pliers, leaking stopped

I replaced a broken power cord in my 15+yr old portable maytag dishwasher as it was much less than a brand new one. I also need to change the seal in the door but that will be another day. Anyway, after removing the four screws inside the door with the torque screw driver (t20, I think) , remove the two screws attaching the counter top to the unit and took that off. You get to them from under the top when the door is open. Then remove two screws from the back of the unit. You can now remove the two screws holding the casing in the front of the unit. I think that is all you need to remove the casing and counter top. You now will need to remove a shield from the back of the unit. You will now need to remove four screws holding the front panel that hides the power cord box and other wires. The power cord runs into a small box that you will need to use the small socket to remove the cover. Disconnect the wire nuts and ground wire from the unit. This will release the power cord from the wires of the unit. Using a pair of pliers, pinch the black thing that holds the power cord in place and pull it through the hole it is slid into. You will need to use some force to do this. It took longer to do this than it did to get to that point for me. You must do this again on the side of the unit where the power cord goes through and runs to the back of the unit. Pull the old power cord out of the unit through the holes in the front and side where the black things were holding it tightly. You have removed the old power cord and are ready to install a new cord. Remember to run the power cord through the compartment in the back that it is to be pulled from when you operatate the unit. This is also where the hose comes out from. After running the cord through the back of the unit, through the side hole and into the hole in the front you have to re-install the black things that hold the cord tight. Be sure the cord is not touching the motor. I attached the cord to other wires underneath using duck tape keeping it away from the motor. This will require the pliers again and a little force to get the black thing to slip through the holes and keep the cord tight. It seemed easier for me to put the black thing in before I attached the power cord to the unit matching the colors up with the wires from the unit. This would be a good time to make sure the wires are connected by plugging in the cord and listening for the unit to start. I put the controls on the dry setting to hear the dryer start. After verifying the unit was connected properly, I used the screws that I took out to attach the box over the wires, attach the front panel, attach the rear shield, attach the casing, and counter top, or any other parts you may have taken off. The dishwasher is one!!!

Had to reuse the original mounting bracket instead of the one that came with the replacement part (held on by 4 screws). Also had to turn each solenoid 90 degrees (a feature of the replacement part) so that I could reuse the original connecting wires. Dishwasher running very quietly now.

Replaced the faucet adapter, works fine