WC301 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Took old one off , installed new one!!

I removed access panle then disconected the wires, water inlet line, and water outlet line from the valve. then took the two screws that held the valve in place off and removed the old valve and replaced with the new. Its that easy. I had one problem that did'nt want to stop haunting me...water leaks at the conections. Tip: don't put access panle on untill sure there are no leaks. You might notice I had an earlier article with a float switch. It turns out that that was not the problem. This water valve was, and it works great again. Not bad for 24yrs old(yes, the dishwasher).

Removed the front of the door by removing 2 screws in each side.

Remove 2 screws on each side holding control panel

Removed old gasket by pulling it out, and installed new gasket. Used needlenose pliers to pull tabs securely into slots.

The Retaining Nut of my Upper Spray Arm fell off and was stripped. I was thinking I was going to have to get a new dishwasher because mine is pretty old. I found Partselect.com and plugged in my model number and it gave me all the parts. It cost me less than $10 with shipping and it saved me about $450.

I only really needed the lip seal that fits in the faucet adapter. After much research I discovered that the seal was simply not available. I tried to substitute a standard O-ring of the correct size, but it was too thick and did not allow the adapter to snap on to the faucet.

I purchased the complete hose assembly from Partselect.com, and received it quickly. I used a small screwdriver to remove the seal from the new hose assembly, and installed it in my existing hose assembly. The seal was a perfect match with the old one, it fit perfectly, and no more leaks.

Be careful not to damage the new seal when you are removing it. Also, be advised that if you choose to replace the entire hose assembly that you may need to replace the areator on your faucet, in this case the new hose would not fit on the existing areator, but fortunately the seal was a perfect match.

I have a new faucet so I remove the screen then I used an extender ring put on your adapter an got the washer to run.

Unscrewed the diswasher from the counter, pulled it out to access the right main door spring and took out the old spring.I installed the plastic washer then slipped the spring throught it and pulled the spring donw with the needle nose vicegrips and inserted the bottom of the spring into the lower hole. I pushed the dishwasher back andrefastened it to the counter.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Purchased and installed new faucet attachment. It arrived quickly and very easy to attach. Thank you !

First I was amazed that the belt was available for my ancient dishwasher. Then I was amazed again when it came overnight. The instructions said to stretch it over the two pulleys but my hands weren't strong enough. In a sudden flash of brilliance I decided to use a screwdriver as a lever to force it onto the second pulley. Done deal - happy home handyman.

I removed four screws and thus the front plate at the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed the old spring, using a long nose pliers and, still using the pliers, replaced it with the new one. The enclosed instructions were helpful as was the previous letter written by someone with the same problem. I then replaced the bottom plate and the door worked as it should. Thanks for once again having the part I needed.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!

First, let me say that the parts arrived really fast,--thnaks for the great service!

First I removed the screws inside the door edges. This releases the front door panels allowing access to the detergent cup parts. Then I removed the old cam return spring, the old cam (and the old spring underneath the cam) and the old bi-metal switch. The instructions were pretty clear on how to install the new style return spring and new cam. Then I installed the new bi-metal switch.

Really, the hardest part of the whole repair is getting the door panels back in the proper place so that the screw holes are aligned. That probably took longer than the rest of the repair job.

The new parts have the detergent cup working like new again. Very satisfying repair!

first I removed the 4 screws that hold the bottom part of the door cover and then removed the 6 bolts
with a power screw driver with nut attachment.I then reomved the 2 wires which are color coded and noted which one went where.I removed the old unit and installed the gasget and new detergengent cup,the wires,bolts and door screws.You do not have to remove the screws to the top part of the door.The screws are located inside the door on each side. Took about 20 minutes.