DWU8460ABX Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

First i bought inner door seal and that didnt work,so i read some of the other repair reviews and found that it was the soap cup latch gasket.When i removed the cover from the door you could see where the water and soap was getting in and running down to the lower right side of the door.Once i looked at the door latch gasket it was easy to see it was torn and worn out.I did replace all four gasket's just for assurance down the road.

Shut off the water and electric then removed the cover at the bottom then removed the water inlet valve and replaced it with the new one. Turned on water and electric. Replaced cover at bottom. Very easy and the part was shipped quickly. No problems and the dishwaser works great now!!

New pump housing filter was needed as the old one was plugged and distorted.

I

Basket Replacement very simple just remove old and set new basket in place

pulled out the old gasket, cleaned the area before pressing in the new gasket with my fingers ,I made sure to put it in the same way as the old one. You have no idea how happy I am that this solved the problem.

After pulling dishwasher out both springs easily installed using plastic connectors on the bottom left and right sides. Pliars were used to stretch the springs. It took fifteen minutes at most.

First I replaced the door gasket as every one else. This cut drips about 30%. I then discoverd that the Rinse Aid circular dispenser cap was opened about half way. I turned the cap tightly clockwise to close and cut drips to 90% total. I czn live with the other 10%,

First I removed power to the dishwasher. The inside panel of the dishwasher door is held on with several screws with Phillips heads. Remove those and the panel comes off. There is a silver metal guard that you have to pull off being careful not to tear the insulation that is on the other side. Then there is one hex head screw to take off the handle latch assembly. You remove this assembly and take off the wires to the two switches on each side of the assembly. The replacement part doesn't come with the black plunger that pushes on the switch buttons so you have to remove it from the old assembly. This was the only difficult part, I essentially destroyed the old plastic assembly getting it out. But putting it in the new assembly was easy. Then I attached the wires to the switches in the new part and reassembled everything. Works like a charm now.

I first made sure the new gasket was long enough and it matched the original. Next I used the tip of a screwdriver to pick out a corner of the old gasket and then pulled the entire thing out. I noticed the old one stopped at the bottom of the gasket well. The new one was much longer and I thought I might have to cut it to length. Well I'm glad I didn't. If you start on the right side and work your way up and around with a 2 in. piece longer then what the old one was. I carefully tucked it in the bottom and closed the door. Glad I didn't cut the new one. Instructions would have been nice. Overall an easy fix. I'm very mechanically inclined so I knew better.

I removed the inside door cover, unpluged the accuator, removed the two screws holding the dispenser latch in place. Replaced both the latch and rubber groumet. returned the door to normal operation and verified no leaks was present.

Removed door interior, confirmed with tester that power was reaching door cut-off switch, but not power on other side of switch when engaged. Noticed that little switch button frozen in shut position, assumed switch had burned out. Installer new door cut-off switch with new (dual) switch units in place, plugged in unit and it ran perfectly.

Removed dishwasher door liner and removed soap dish door latch assembly. Removed latch from assembly and replaced with new latch. Had trouble replacing assembly in correct sequence. Had to go on line and look at sequence picture to replace assembly correctly. Installed new gasket and replaced liner in door. The new gasket and latch solved my leak problem.
Thank you PartSelect

Took out the old basket,
Threw it away.
Popped in the new baskey,
filled it with forks and spoons.
Works great!

By the way, my order arrived in one day.
Phenomenal!

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

Had service man: stated I would need new motor/pump at $400 complete. I didn't like the interior of new dishwashers. Nothing to lose, so I verified that the motor was working; reviewed short PartSelect video. Ref: very helpful PartSelect assembly diagrams with parts list. THANKS PS! Removed two dish racks (top rack: extend fully and flip the roller-keeper clips. Pull rollers and rack-pins apart) Then I started taking the pump apart all the way down to the pump base (fits into tub with seal - did not replace that seal). Very intuitive - some parts are tight and must be encouraged to come apart; take care of seals and o-rings; take notes of sequence if necessary. Look for parts requiring replacement. Unscrew Spray Tower Lower Extension Nozzle and lift off Spray Arm and two lower spray arm seals - check seals for wear. Unscrew pencil-like Spray Arm Support Nut. Cause: I found a totally-clogged Pump Housing Filter, a bit of steel wool about the size of my thumb (same size as water supply opening in bottom), and small piece of broken glass. Cleaned all parts coated with lime; new Pump Housing Filter (could not clean adequately). Cleaned the screens underside of filter support (difficult) with brush and wire. Replaced o-rings for Wash Impeller and Drain Impeller as a matter of principle. Only alignment requirement is with bottom water supplly hole. Everything works like new now! Recommendation: clean Pump Housing Filter annually.