MDB5600AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Took the dishwaher apart. Found out the float was damaged. Replaced the float and the float switch. Put back together

I followed the directions given on line. Unscrewed the panel on the lower front of the dishwasher. Located the water valve by the hoses going into it. Turned off the water and electricity. Took off hoses--one came off like a garden hose. The other was clamped on. Disconnected wires. Unscrewed the valve. Replaced with new one by screwing it in. Put hoses back on. Attached wires as before. Screwed on panel, and did a load of dishes. Worked like new. Thanks! Saved us from having to buy a new washer and/or paying a repairman to come in. Good thing because the pump on our well went a couple days later and had to buy a new one.

Followed the suggestions on PartSelect - took off the screws on the door; removed 2 screws on the assembly that held it to the door; disconnected switches (hardest part) - they seem to fuse on(or rust) from the moisture; took the new (much sturdier part than original) assembly and plugged in the switches; set in place; replaced the 2 screws, replaced the screws holding the door panel - Complete - works great! Here we thought we would have to get a new dishwasher!!!!

Shut off power to dishwasher, remove screws holding panel to door , move panel enough to get to circuit board. Remove three nut drivers screws, unplug cables from circuit board. Remove circuit board by unsnapping from side ears, replace new circuit board, plug in cables. secure with screws, secure door panel. put power back to dishwasher.

I originally ordered the incorrect piece via the website, however when calling PartSelect to return the part they informed me that they could help me find the correct piece which they did. The correct piece arrived within 4 days. It was easy to install. The part works well. I'm very happy with the customer service.

Unplug the power cable. Remove 11 torx fasteners holding the inner door panel. Remove two sets of wires from old opener and install the new door opener assembly. Replace all the screws. About 10 minutes with a power driver.

I first listened carefully and noticed that during cycling, the electric motors could be heard starting, stopping, and apparently running normally during both wash and emptying cycles. However, no water was being pumped around during the wash cycles, while emptying (which uses a different motor) worked normally throughout all cycles. Thus it seemed to me that the electronic programming was working correctly in turning both motors on and off as necessary. So I figured somehow the wash motor impella was not turning and pumping water, despite the fact that the motor was indeed running correctly. So I removed all the plastic housings, the screwed on impella, and the metal chopper at the base of dishwasher. Then I was able to easily pry the old plastic chopper sleeve right off of the electric motor shaft (normally it is screwed on and cannot be pryed off). Since the plastic threads inside the chopper sleeve were completely stripped, the motor shaft would turn but the impella would slip on the shaft and not be driven. The replacement sleeve was much better constructed (metal not plastic). It could be easily screwed on to the motor's driveshaft after lifting the old rubber seal and gently holding the motor shaft with a pliers (carefull to avoid scratching the shaft). I removed the old rubber seal nd replaced it with the new one from the kit, right over the newly installed metal chopper sleeve. Next, I easily centered the metal chopper sleeve and pressed in the new seal after reinstalling the plastic/metal chopper screen, using the temporary jig included in the kit. Then the jig was discarded and the impella simply screwed onto the chopper sleeve (using the appropriately threaded hold-down screw provided in the kit). Finally, the rest of the plastic hardware is screwed in place. Waahhlaa...now impella is motor driven again and blows water hard into the dishwasher during the wash and rinse cycles. Total cost of job to do-it-yourself, $29.50 including shipping (which only took three working days). Estimated job if down by appliance repairman, $140 (assuming the repairman didn't first erroneously blame the problem on faulty electronics then charge you hundreds of $$'s to replace circuits which were not broken to begin with, only to find the dishwasher still not washing/rinsing after his expensive electronic circuit replacements. The actually mechanical fix was cheap and simple. Truthfully, there is no excuse for Jenn Aire to ever use a plastic Chopper Sleeve in their dishwashers to begin with.......carefully planned obsolesence if you ask me. Oh well, it works perfect now. I doubt if even the four marbles my 4 year old had tried earlier to wash in my dishwasher (stripping out the original chopper sleeve) would do any damage to the metal replacement. However, I don't plan on testing my hunch. A simple fix, but a slightly challenging diagnosis which relied on a keen sense of hearing and a quiet workplace. Seems many people in these blogs have had the very same problem with their Jenn Air/Maytag dishwashers, and have made the same diagnosis and the same simple fix. Thank you mucho, PartSelect.

Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.

I would not have figured it out had I not viewed the video on installing the latch assembly. The latch must be in the LOCK POSITION before installing. It would help if the latch was in the LOCKED position before shipment.

Removed 11 T20 Torx head screws. Removed and replaced latch. Removed and replaced door seal and foam insulation strip - no additional tools required. Super easy to repair and didn't leak a drop afterwards.

The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.

I removed the old door seal -- it just slips right out. Then I inserted the new door seal. One thing I noticed on the old door seal and also in your photograph is that the last inch or two of the seal on both ends is kind of sliced in half perhaps to make it fit better in the corner. But we decided not to cut it yet and have been using it uncut as it arrived in the package. It is working great! No leaking! So we're not going to cut it. Thank you for offering this great service. It saved us a lot of money since we didn't call a repairman.

Unfortunately, my experience was unlike that of the other people who posted. While everything did go back together it was very difficult to get it all to press down tightly enough to tighten each set of screws. The project took about 2.5 hrs and I still don't think it is exactly right. I'm still going to have a professional out to finish the job. Also, the tool needed to complete the job was nothing fancy, but also not in everyone's home tool kit.

from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.

First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle.
All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends.
Thanks,
Harold L.