MDBH975AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed eight screws and installed the new parts. The replacement factory parts are better then the originals and the latch handle should not break again. Had I called for service it would have cost $149 (not incuding parts) just for them to show up to look at it and tell me that they need to order these same parts. Plus, I would have had to wait an addtional two weeks for them to order the parts and come back to do the repair since most service companies do not carry parts with them. Their parts are marked up and would have cost 30% more for the same factory parts I order from you. The parts including shipping were $36.30 and I had the repair completed in three days, including standard shipping time. Quite a savings! and very easy to complete the repair.

Thank you!

Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.

Accumulator was as easy as just removing srews and replacing the part. The Float I broke by accident and was more complicated to replace required 2 people to manage parts.
Dishes finally coming out clean!

Removed filter cover and filter and found the plastic chopper sleeve was stripped out. Followed instructions that came with the seal kit to replace it.

I removed the old rack adjuster by unscrewing four screws. I put the new rack adjuster in place, carefully fitted the adjustment parts together, then replaced the four screws. The best part of the repair was that Parts Select had originally indicated that my part would be on back order for a few weeks, but I actually received the part within just a few days. What a nice surprise - thanks!

1 - Disconnect the electrical power
2 - Open the dishwasher door
3 - Use Allan wrench to remove the screws from the inside door panel
4 - Separate the inside pane from the door
5 - Remove the latch assembly
6 - Use a screw driver or pliers to remove the electrical connectors from the broken latch assembly
7 - Connect the electrical connectors to the replacement latch assembly
8 - Place the replacement latch assemble in the door
9 - Replace the inside door panel
10 - Replace the screws to secure the inside door panel
11 – Reconnect the electrical power

Disconnect the power,open panel and remove screws with the exception of the two bottom ones. This allows the panel cover to be opened far enough to pull latch assembly clear.
Remove electrical contacts (2) and put defective unit aside. Connect new latch unit to both wire saddles,line up unit with proper holes and install two screws. Once fixed in place,install all other screws and switch power back on.Do a short test run to check for any leaks

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps:

1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes];

2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly.

3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.];

3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point.

4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher.

5) Close the door back.

6) Stare.

Read the Q & A, watched the videos and tried not to drop any screws into the wash tub. Walter from Tucson, AZ made a great point about not overtightening any screws that bed into plastic.

Received the entire latch/switch assembly rather than just the plastic latch handle. This was a pleasant surprise, especially for the price. The latch assembly was clearly a better designed and more robust assembly than the original.
Removed the inside panel of the door by removing the dozen or so TORX screws.
Pulled the inside panel away from the outside door panel (gently, cables attached) to gain access to the latch/switch assembly. A second set of hands was helpful for this and some following steps.
At that point the latch assembly was free mechanically from the door, but there were two wiring harnesses attached to the latch assembly via plug connectors to the two microswitches on the latch assembly. It looked like it was going to be easy to unplug the harness from the switches, but I could not do it. Never did figure out how to do it.
Removed the two microswitches (with harnesses attached) from the 'old' latch assembly by pulling back the plastic tab that holds each switch in place. At that point the rest of the latch assembly was completely free from the machine.
Removed the two microswitches from the 'new' latch assembly using the same method as above. This step requires care as the plastic parts and switches can be damaged.
Put in place the two 'old' microswitches with wiring harnesses attached on each side of the 'new' latch assembly. These snap in place. This requires care, as above, and the second set of hands to hold away the inside door panel.
Put the latch/switch assembly in place in the door, and put the inside door panel back in place.
Re-installed the TORX screws holding the inside door panel - and latch assembly - to the door.
I kept the 'new' microswitches because one day the 'old' switches may fail. If that happens and I want to replace the microswitches, I still don't know how I will remove the switches from the wiring harness. I guess I'll figure that out if the time comes.
Except for the difficulties disconnecting the microswitches from the harnesses, this was an easy and straightforward job. The latching of the door seems more positive, now, and the machine is working fine.

Basically took out of box and put in dishwasher.

Snapped out the old retainer, snapped in the new. Then snapped in the washer arm. Done. Works great.

Took the dishwaher apart. Found out the float was damaged. Replaced the float and the float switch. Put back together

A common theme you'll see thoughout the repair stories;

1. many broken handles at the hinge
2. TURN THE POWER OFF.

This assembly comes with the microswitches (which is not a bad idea to replace since they are electromechanical and will eventually fail). My only recommendation is to buy a couple of these handle assemblies because they WILL fail. I'm on my 3rd!