PDC3600BWX Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

removed the door gasket by just pulling it out and pushing the new one in its place. very easy, took five minutes at most. Then removed the 7 screws holding the inside of the door in place, removed the dispenser assembly, held by two drive screws and replaced the dispenser door latch grommet. Finally, removed the insulation foam gasket. Had to scrape the old adhesive from the door as the old a\gasket had disintegrated. This took the most time. Then just pressed the new foam gasket in place. Reading the comments from others was a big help. Don't think I would have replaced the dispenser grommet had I not been warned about it. I'm sure it was part of the problem. All is well now, no leaks.

Took off old part. Modified new roller w'knife. Found a nut and bolt in scrap pile. Attached.

I pulled the interior of the door until I was able to get to the switches on the door latch. I determined at least one switch was completely worn while the other worked minimally. I then looked for the latch assembly and found out that it was no longer available. So I did some searching and found the exact switches I needed from PartSelect. The switches came in about 3 days which then I installed them. The dishwasher powered right up and stayed on. So in the end it was much cheaper to repair this unit than buy a new one right now. Plus, my wife is happy and so am I. Thanks PartSelect for carrying the parts I needed.

This ended up to be a (2) phase project. The first repair was to replace the door seal and inner door foam. Thanks to earlier online comments this part was really easy, but we still had a small leak. When I had removed the interior face of the door panel to replace the inner door foam, I had noticed the insulation was wet and deducted that the 'soap cup door latch gasket' was the real culprit so I had to place a second order (Phase 2). The order came quickly and in time for next Saturdays to to list. My advice is to replace all 4 items at the same time and save on mailing cost and repair time; reservoir O-ring, soap cup door latch gasket, inner foam gasket and door gasket. net repair time, about an hour start to finish.
Don and Rosie
Rochester, NY

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

I ordered the part and it fit perfectly!! About five minutes to screw it onto my faucet and problem solved!!!

I surfed the net using phrases like "dishes not clean" and found a series of possible solutions. When I noticed that the water in the washer was cold, I realized it was a heating element issue. Using a multi-meter set to the lowest resistance I tested both ends of the heating element (OF COURSE I SHUT OFF ELECTRICITY TO THE DISHWASHER FIRST!!!) and found it read a steady 16 ohms. Then I followed the orange leads to the limiter, removed the leads and tested resistance and found it at near zero. Touchdown.

I ordered the new limiter, had it in a couple of days and installed in in 5 minutes. The hardest part was putting the metal cover back on the bottom of the unit.t

I first disconnected power from the dishwaher at the breaker panel. Then, removed 4 screws on the front of the dishwasher and removed the lower panel. I removed the two wires (compression fittings, by hand). Then I used an adjustable wrench to remove the two nuts which retained the element. I opened the diswasher door and extracted the old element. I reused the rubber O-rings from the old element and placed the new element into the dishwasher. I replaced the nuts and wires. I reenergized the circuit and ran the diswasher through a normal cycle. Note: I had plenty of towels on hand just in case the old O-rings did not perform. No problems encountered. I replaced the front cover and loaded have checked under for leaks during the last two wash cycles. Note: be sure not to over tighten the element nuts as they are plastic and will strip out. I used the model number to obtain the new part and all went flawlwssly. Thans!

tilted the dishwasher back so the bottom was exposed and unhooked the old hoses, then removed old hoses through the back side of the dish washer then fed the new hoses through the back and hooked them up.

float was missing palnut and letting the float slide up too much causing small leak around the float

After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

The bottom rack was easiest, just picked it up out of the dishwasher and moved the sprayer and the silverware holder from the old rack to the new rack and set it back in the dishwasher. The top rack was a little tricky, it took a minute to figure out to remove the little end-caps on the runners and then it just slid out. Slid the new one in, replaced the caps and moved the upper rack basket. It took less than 15 minutes to fix and now it's like a brand new dishwasher!

I googled the simptoms online, and found that the most common cause for a door leak was the door seal. I purchased the seal online from PartSelect.com. Two days later, the part arrived. I pulled out the old seal and pushed in the new one. No tools required. That fixed the problem. While looking at the parts diagram, I noticed that my dishwasher didn't have the water deflectors installed. I don't know if they were ever there. They were cheap, so I ordered them online and slid them into place in less than 10 seconds. Again, no tools required. Dishwasher runs great, no leaks.

The rear right caster (wheel) under our fairly new portable dishwasher broke. Upon looking up the part, I discovered that it did not bolt into place, meaning that the exterior skin of the dishwasher did not have to be removed and that more than likely I could fix it myself.

The replacement wheels from Partselect were nicer quality than what the original was and showed up just two days after they were ordered.

However, getting what remained of the broken caster out was frustrating. I am not unhandy around the house, having put in two new bathrooms and a staircase.

But after yanking and prying on the broken caster for 20 minutes (slamming my fingers into the floor every time the pliers slipped), I could see where most people would give up and call a repairman. Finally, with help from small pry bar, the broken caster popped loose. Thankfully, putting the new in was as simple as sliding it into place.

Unfortunately, after all that work, we discovered the new caster was slightly taller than the old, leaving the dishwasher with a distinct wobble that my wife said was unacceptable. She, of course, had not been repeatedly introducing her hand to the floor.

I had ordered two replacement casters, thinking that another of the originals might break. But getting the second one out proved just as difficult as the first, even with the help of the pry bar.

After much cussing and kissing of finger booboos, our Maytag dishwasher is as good as the day we brought it home.

The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.